Crazy question- handlebar rebound

I'll give 3MM a try shortly, just measured they are 6MM now, thats to the fork, not the top of the cap. I that will put it nearly flush with the top brace, correct?


allballs bearings and races, the tapered kind.

On the stand I had adjusted it to the point where there was no play- pretty much followed my shop manual verbatim. I do know I went maybe an 1/8 possibly a 1/4 turn past that point after I'd taken it on a test ride, and the extra turn did reduce that feeling. Was worried about going past that point however.

What you describe as "rebound" might be binding from tightening the bearings too much.

With the top clamp removed, you want to tighten down the preload nut until it's tight, this seats the bearings, then back off about 1/4 turn. You have to feel for smooth action though.

I think they're too tight.

Kidkawie wrote: What you describe as "rebound" might be binding from tightening the bearings too much.
With the top clamp removed, you want to tighten down the preload nut until it's tight, this seats the bearings, then back off about 1/4 turn. You have to feel for smooth action though.
I think they're too tight.

Yes, ever so slightly too tight.

Could experiment by setting the preload slightly too loose, and going for a test ride.
If low speed steering improves, then fine tune the tightness.

After adjusting the preload, remember to loosen the two lower fork tube clamp bolts (which allows the tubes to reseat themselves), and then re-torque them per factory specs.

Good Fortune!

Hmmm, when I had it set that light, I'd get wobble low speed if I let go the handle bar, increasing that tightness made that stop.
When it had it snugged up just barely- still felt sloppy 0-5mph
1/4 turn tigher made it feel better.

Medina wrote: ...Standard checklist- new everything- tire/springs/seals/bearings/races (allballs, not oem), front wheel bearings "feel" perfect...very low speed the threat of over-steer is there...feels unstable.
At speeds from 15-30 if I let go the bars, tracks perfect, as a test, I bumped the bar and got wobble...
At highway speeds...Perfect ride...could put my feet up and lean way back for miles.
At low speeds, 0-10 it feels like I may dump the bike by turning the bars too fast.
AND that weird handling didn't start till I.......replaced everything...
edit: I run the tires nearly max pressure. Dunlop 404s.
After reading a brilliant file on heat/tire pressures, thats where dunlop suggested they should be-(incidentally, that tweak did make a huge difference in the tracking problem I was having. my old standard pressure of 28/30 for the front was FOUR pounds too low....

weird handling didn't start till I.......replaced everything...

Some random thoughts --

Not seeing where 404 is among the tires Dunlop recommends for KZ1100.

Perhaps the 404 isn't compatible with whatever rear tire remains fitted.

Some tire designs are less tolerant of the rather heavy Vetter fairing.

Sometimes certain tires just perform better than others on particular bikes, where the bike is otherwise perfect, even when both tires are brand new and properly mounted and balanced with correct psi.

Good Fortune!

GACK
yer right
Those 404's are on there at the specific recommendation of the shop. They are suggested for the kz1100gpz, NOT the A, and certainly not the vetter model.
I wrote to Dunlop asking them specifically about my bike/model/package.
I'm pissed to say the least. After the fiasco I had with that shop already, I just dont want to go back there, and certainly fear taking it back there even if the guy willingly said "we're sorry, we'll fix the problem"
list of BS..three times to fix the fork seals, the whole reason to have them do it vs. me...two day turn around, 100 bucks...did the math, cheaper for me that way.
one of those times, picked up the bike front fender was loose..yes, flopping around barely held in my the four 12mm's...asked the guy WTF, he said, "oh, sorry, we got in a rush today"...THAT terrified me.
so, I'm boned...I think you're right. heavier rated front tire will probably clear up this ongoing headache I've had- well...maybe next year I can get the tire replaced.

thanks guys for the input, like an instant encyclopedia here.

Another head scratcher solved !!
I had a thought too. Wondering how many miles you have on this set of tires ?
When I put Avon Venoms on my HD Ultra in Arizona before riding home to Michigan the shop told me to drive easy for a hundred miles as the tires wont feel right till broke in . They were right. The bike felt greasy for the first 100 miles then it was perfect and drove better than the Dunlops I had on it before.
Just saying , maybe they will scuff in like the Venoms did for me.

Oh, I got the tires about 5 weeks ago, and have already put...900 miles on them I bet.
Trying to do the math in my head..Trip to Pa, that was about 400, two trips to north coast, 100 each, couple more joy rides 100 each.. thats 800 there...couple trips here and there another 100..yeah, 900ish... I guess I could pull them off, but..$$$
dammit, no more long trips till dunlop says they wont blow up at 70mph. bummer.
They went from not broke in, to broke, LOL!!

Considering the service history, would also double-check balance of the front tire, and whether it might possibly be slightly out of round.

Good Fortune!

The Dun 404 seems like a decent tire, I've had them on my KZ1000 with the Vetter set up with no Tire issues. I just ordered a set for the Concours also, but am in process still.
Check your swing arm bearings/ bushings for play, especially on the left/ chain side. All of the worn bearings, swing arm, wheel etc have all been on the left side of the bike for me, front and rear. The torque from your drive is much greater against the chain side of the swing arm. Any movement here will more than likely give a slow speed handling issue.

Would also assure well-lubed non-kinking drive chain.

And assure perfect rear wheel alignment in the swing arm.
Don't rely on the raised marks provided on the swing arm.
Measure on both sides from center point of swing arm pivot to center point of rear axle, which measurements should be exactly the same.

Good Fortune!

Oopsies -- just noticed the bike at hand is a shaft drive. :ohmy:

Its a shafty, but some of that does apply