Suggestions for wheel bearing removal...NEED HELP!

Hey guys.

I am changing out my original wheel bearings to install new sealed ones.

I have the rear wheel apart. The only thing I have left to do is remove the 2 small wheel bearings and the spacer between them.

The manual says to use a rod, put it through the spacer and tap it with a hammer around the inside edge of the original bearing until it comes out.

I've been doing this...and it ain't budging.

So has anyone ever accomplished this before using this particular method?

Do you guys have any other more promising suggestions?

Looking at the wheel diagram for my model, does it look like I can just lay the wheel down on the sprocket side (sprocket already removed), put a large socket on the rotor side bearing, then smack the socket with a hammer until the opposite side bearing comes loose / out?




Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

They won't drive through, each must come out from the side they are installed. Take the snap ring out, if you haven't already. Get a bit of a lever, and try to Off center the spacer, to get access to the bearing race. Use the tools suggested in the manual, a drift and hammer. It should knock out 1 bearing, then turn it over to do the other.

OK, thanks for the info.

I may not be able to drive it through with the rod. There is less than 1/16th of an inch space on the bearing race to hit. The rod is just not catching. I push the spacer as far to the side as it will go and it doesn't leave me enough room to hit out.

All the retainer clips are removed.

I have seen where someone drilled into the wheel bearing and took it apart to pull a stuck one out.
What about that technique?

I replaced the rear wheel bearings on my 750/4 a few weeks back and the parts diagram you posted looks the same as for mine. The internal spacer has a collar which centers the spacer on the sprocket side so you have to push it out of the way on the disc side. Lay the wheel down with the disc down but use a couple of 4 x 4s to support the wheel rim and keep disc off the ground. I used a large flat blade screwdriver to push the spacer to one side and even then I may only had 1/8 of an inch to work with, I used the same big screwdriver at 90 degrees to the inner bearing ring and beat the heck out of it with a hammer. I would give it a couple of whacks and then place the screwdriver blade at the other side and beat it again. I almost gave up but eventually the old bearing came out. As motorhead said they have to come out the side they went in. Once the bearing stared to move it went ok. I found a big socket.... think it was 33mm ... perfect for driving the new bearings in.

I think the snap ring/cirtclip was on the sprocket side. Hope this helps/

The spacer between the bearings has an offset centering disk on the outside of it so it will push over more on one side then the other helping with bearing removal. Try the other side and see if you can catch more.

I use a combination of heat, hammer and a blind hole bearing puller I bought at harbor freight.

The Blind Hole bearing puller can be of help, if you can get it to catch the edge of the bearing, when the spacer is in the way. I've always just pushed the spacer over to expose a edge of the bearing, and use a drift with a good edge, hammer it out. Be sure not to punch on the inner bearing race when installing the new ones. You can put the new bearings in the freezer for a while to shrink them. Then heat the hub with a heat gun or hair dryer. They will go right in.

Soak the outer race of the bearing where it contacts the wheel with Kroil. Let that soak for a couple days until it breaks the bond between the bearing and wheel. The use the drift pin as described in the manual. Ed

So I soaked it in Kroil for a couple of days. Still wouldn't budge. Heated hub up with propane torch and that did not work either. Even bought a new drift pin.

I have spent 2-3 hours a day for 3 straight days and have failed to move either bearing at all.

I am up for any new suggestions if anyone has had to try something not mentioned yet.

I am about ready to just start cutting the bearing somehow with my dremel cutter. If I can get one out by cutting it out, maybe I can get the other one out without cutting.

Thanks guys.

My kz1000 manual says ;
Insert a metal rod into the hub from the disk side and remove the left side bearing by tapping evenly around the bearing inner race.

When I did mine that's the way I did it , I know not much help, but when you finally get it out the distance collar will come out with it and the disk side bearing is a lot easier to remove.

Maybe you could try grinding a sharp edge on your drift pin to help grab the inner race ?

The back bearings went OK for me , when I got to the front ones I had more trouble.
I ended up talking the local Harley mechanic into knocking them out when he mounted and balanced my new tires

JD

Have you been able to Cock the center sleeve to get onto the bearing race? Maybe place an object into the sleeve and then using a Lever against the inner bearing race, so the sleeve moves over. Getting enough for a good contact with a drift. One the bearing moves just a few thousandths, the sleeve will be loose and you can then work it side to side for a even removal.A decent sized hammer, wearing a glove on your holding hand for a bit of protection. That really hurts when you smack your hand instead of the drift.

Finally got them out!!! Thanks for all the great advice guys.

I took a break from them while I finished painting my frame. I ended up using a bunch of heat on the hub and tapping away...lots of patience.

I also thought the tip on freezing the new ones and heating the hub to install was genius. They went right in.

Got the wheel all together now with new rotor and 530 sprocket.

Thanks again guys!