Sprocket Life Expectancy

Topper wrote: It's worse than I thought. Cleaned the gunk out and what I took to be a worn chain gaurd was actually the transmission cover. And the clutch push rod has two grooves cut in it from the chain.

The PO must have removed the chain guard to fit the 18T sprocket. And even the slightest amount of extra slack in the chain caused it to rub.

That is terrible. 18T sprockets just don't fit. I wish they had designed in enough room, but they didn't.

Looked over the procedure for changing the front sprocket. The manual mentions a special tool called a sprocket holder. Do I really need that or is there another way to keep the sprocket steady? I'm thinking there's gotta be a way to put this old chain to use in this job.

Also, this may seem silly, but can I just pull the clutch push rod out and stick a new one in? The manual is kind of mum on this and I just want to be sure there's nothing attached to the other end that's gonna come undone when I pull it out.

I use the old chain to hold the sprocket. If the chain and wheel are still in place, have somebody hold the brake while you break loose the nut. If not, wrap the chain around the sprocket and swingarm and use someting to clamp the chain toghether right behind the swingarm pivot - a bolt through the links, for instance. Now breaking the nut is easy.

The rod can be pulled out, but sometimes the ball comes with it and must be reinserted with the new rod.

Unless your bike is vastly different than my 1000,Just lean bike a little to right and pull out shaft and replace it , being sure not to loose the ball bearing while the shaft is out.

Reinstall chain and hold rear brake down will keep front sprocket from rotating so you can loosen nut on front sprocket

Topper wrote: Looked over the procedure for changing the front sprocket. The manual mentions a special tool called a sprocket holder. Do I really need that or is there another way to keep the sprocket steady? I'm thinking there's gotta be a way to put this old chain to use in this job.

Also, this may seem silly, but can I just pull the clutch push rod out and stick a new one in? The manual is kind of mum on this and I just want to be sure there's nothing attached to the other end that's gonna come undone when I pull it out.

Here's cheap Ed's good ole sprocket holder. Just loop a section of chain around the front sprocket, pass one end of the chain above the swingarm pivot toward the rear and the other end below the swingarm pivot toward the rear. Connect the top and bottom chain lengths using 2 long thin bolts - one in front and one behind the swingarm pivot. There you have it; you can then loosen the front sprocket nut. Doing it this way you don't need a second person to hold the brake and you put no stress on the brake system. Ed

Thanks guys. Ed's good ole sprocket holder looks like just the ticket.

So there's a ball bearing on the end of the clutch push rod? I'll be sure to keep an eye out for that.

kidkawie, can't believe I didn't think about putting a magnet on the sprocket to test it. It is steel, not aluminum. So this was all due to the oversized engine sprocket causing the chain to rub and pick up metal fragments and then accelerate the wear on the rear sprocket.

I went over the old chain and found a couple of busted rollers. Man I feel dumb for not catching this sooner, but I'm sure glad I caught it when I did!

Yes, you don't need a flung chain in the middle of no where. As Luck would have it, spotty cell phone reception, or all your friends with pick up trucks will be busy.

Topper wrote: Looked over the procedure for changing the front sprocket. The manual mentions a special tool called a sprocket holder. Do I really need that or is there another way to keep the sprocket steady?

foot on rear brake while you turn it... easier with an assistant but doable alone.