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Rear wheel damper worn out?
- 74ullc
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Are the ones from Z1E good to go if I do need one?
Gulf Coast, Texas
1977 KZ1000LTD
1984 VF700F
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- 74ullc
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I'm about 99% sure mine is original so the age alone should make it time to buy a new one, but maybe not?
Gulf Coast, Texas
1977 KZ1000LTD
1984 VF700F
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- goodfastncheap
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bump, I was wondering exactly the same thing...74ullc wrote: Good to know....I'll go for an OEM part. How do I know if mine is bad? The book says to check for excessive play. How much play is excessive? I wouldnt think there should be any play. My guess would be that the rubber damper would be snug in there. I just dont want to buy one only to find the new one exactly the same as the old one.
I'm about 99% sure mine is original so the age alone should make it time to buy a new one, but maybe not?
1979 KZ650 B3
KZ Relay Rider #54, Iowa, Nebraska and Kansas
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- Samwell
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74ullc wrote: Good to know....I'll go for an OEM part. How do I know if mine is bad? The book says to check for excessive play. How much play is excessive? I wouldnt think there should be any play. My guess would be that the rubber damper would be snug in there. I just dont want to buy one only to find the new one exactly the same as the old one.
I'm about 99% sure mine is original so the age alone should make it time to buy a new one, but maybe not?
I don't have my manual handy, but I don't think its expressed exactly - like the free play in the clutch lever is. If you can feel it clunk to and fro, its probably too worn. I think your instinct its right - if it's that old, a replacement is in order.
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Current Rides: 2013 BMW R1200GSW, 1972 BMW R75/5
Current Project: 1978 KZ1000A2: Supercrank'd by Falicon, APE studs and nuts, Dyna Green coils, powder coated frame and fenders, Stainless brake lines, dual front discs, pods, Kerker Exhaust, 1075cc with JE pistons
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- wireman
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posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.
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- wireman
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posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.
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- 74ullc
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wireman wrote: Remember that bike generates a hell of a lot more torque at the rear wheel than you could ever dream of by hand,if you can feel it move imagine what the motor does to it! :woohoo:
So when new there is no free play? I had my rear wheel off recently to check rear bearings. I was surprised when I tilted the wheel and the sprocket/hub/damper all fell free of the wheel. I would have expected the damper to be a little snug in there, like an engine mount or the rubber damper in an outboard prop.
I have been feeling some driveline backlash at very low speeds but attributed it to the carbs (rough coming off idle) or my not so great clutch work. I still think both of those things are not helping but now I think the damper is also part of the problem. I'm getting a chug chug chug feel when getting back onto the throttle after coasting thru a corner, a very slow speed corner, under 5 mph.
Also, I really need to get new mix screws! The engine stumbles and wants to stall coming off idle. I have one screw with a broken tip and the other three are bent and deformed. I'm hoping thats the only reason for that engine stumble.
Instead of silicone I could put rubber spacers in there to take up the slack. That would tell me how much of it is the damper without having to order one to find out.
Gulf Coast, Texas
1977 KZ1000LTD
1984 VF700F
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- faffi
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In reality, these items are pretty sturdy. But a worn damper in the rear wheel will increase wear in the chain/sprockets, gearbox and clutch shock absorbers. Whether it's enough to worry about is an entirely different question.
1977 KZ650B1
1980 F1 engine
B1 3-phase alternator
B1 Points ignition
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