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Tire pressure 650CSR
- uncle nick
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17 Sep 2013 04:36 #606756
by uncle nick
1981 KZ650 CSR
Tire pressure 650CSR was created by uncle nick
Hi all, I'm wanting to check with other KZ650-H CSR owners what tire pressures you use?
The manual says 25psi front (which seems a little low but ok) but only 22-25psi in the rear, which seems very low compared to other bikes I've owned.
The KZ650-D has the same rear wheel size yet it runs at 25-28 psi (up to 110mph) and 28-32psi over 110mph.
Just seems strange to me, any thoughts?
The manual says 25psi front (which seems a little low but ok) but only 22-25psi in the rear, which seems very low compared to other bikes I've owned.
The KZ650-D has the same rear wheel size yet it runs at 25-28 psi (up to 110mph) and 28-32psi over 110mph.
Just seems strange to me, any thoughts?
1981 KZ650 CSR
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- martin_csr
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17 Sep 2013 10:00 - 13 Oct 2013 10:28 #606772
by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic Tire pressure 650CSR
In general I think you're supposed to go by what the tire manufacturer recommends, but you kinda have to figure it out for yourself, somewhere between what the om says & the tire mfg. Some tire websites list the air pressures. For GT501s on the 650-CSR Dunlop says to use 32 psi Fr & 36 Rr. For BT45s I couldn't find the psi info on the Bridgestone site, so I use the Dunlop numbers. The Dunlop site also has a tire care & maintenance section that may be of use.
Many of you already know this. Replacing electrical connectors, is easy (the plastic part). If any of them are crumbly or damaged, don't waste your time trying to find exact oem replacements... there is no such thing, not readily available anyway. Installing any make of new connectors is so easy, it doesn't matter anyway. If only half of a connector is damaged, replace both halves - it's easy. The terminals inside the connector that actually make the electrical contact will most likely be fine, so in most cases you only need to replace the plastic connector.
Connectors. There is a wide variety of connectors available, so to keep things simple try to install a similar connector to the one you're replacing. If you've ever been inside the headlight bucket, you probably noticed that there were various different connectors, even different colors. Kawasaki did that for a reason - to make it easier to connect everything. K&L has a good selection of connectors in various colors, and they would be a good swap for the oem connectors. I haven't installed any of them yet, but they appear to be similar to oem (they appear to be a good match but they are not the same). Z1Enterprises.com has them.
Terminal extractor/removal tools. All you need are a couple of the terminal removal tools or an extractor set. Insert the extractor tip into the connector to depress the little tang, then pull out the wire from the connector. easy. You may have to apply forward pressure on the wires before depressing the tangs as the tangs may be gripping the connector. still easy though.
Open barrel terminals. If you have to replace the electrical terminals, get the correct crimper tool. Open barrel terminals require the use of an open barrel crimper. Any old crimper is not going to work. The only open barrel crimpers I've seen are the ratcheting type, but not all ratcheting crimpers are correct for the application (reference the one from Harbor Freight). The ratcheting crimper from HF seems like a good tool & it's fine for doing some crimps, but not open barrel terminals. Get the correct crimper. The time wasted using the incorrect tool isn't worth it, and you'll end up with poor connections, and you may even end up doing some soldering that shouldn't have been necessary (for lack of the proper tool).
HF ratcheting crimper & Crimper dies. I noticed that the ends of the HF crimper that do the actual crimping are held in place by a couple of screws. Also, some other crimpers look very similar to the HF tool, but the crimper ends were different. So I figured the ends are probably replaceable - they are (they're called crimper dies). If you already have the HF ratcheting tool, you can get the correct open barrel crimper dies at Amazon.com - they aren't specifically for the HF crimper, but they fit. If you don't already have the HF tool, go ahead & get the correct open barrel crimper.
Many of you already know this. Replacing electrical connectors, is easy (the plastic part). If any of them are crumbly or damaged, don't waste your time trying to find exact oem replacements... there is no such thing, not readily available anyway. Installing any make of new connectors is so easy, it doesn't matter anyway. If only half of a connector is damaged, replace both halves - it's easy. The terminals inside the connector that actually make the electrical contact will most likely be fine, so in most cases you only need to replace the plastic connector.
Connectors. There is a wide variety of connectors available, so to keep things simple try to install a similar connector to the one you're replacing. If you've ever been inside the headlight bucket, you probably noticed that there were various different connectors, even different colors. Kawasaki did that for a reason - to make it easier to connect everything. K&L has a good selection of connectors in various colors, and they would be a good swap for the oem connectors. I haven't installed any of them yet, but they appear to be similar to oem (they appear to be a good match but they are not the same). Z1Enterprises.com has them.
Terminal extractor/removal tools. All you need are a couple of the terminal removal tools or an extractor set. Insert the extractor tip into the connector to depress the little tang, then pull out the wire from the connector. easy. You may have to apply forward pressure on the wires before depressing the tangs as the tangs may be gripping the connector. still easy though.
Open barrel terminals. If you have to replace the electrical terminals, get the correct crimper tool. Open barrel terminals require the use of an open barrel crimper. Any old crimper is not going to work. The only open barrel crimpers I've seen are the ratcheting type, but not all ratcheting crimpers are correct for the application (reference the one from Harbor Freight). The ratcheting crimper from HF seems like a good tool & it's fine for doing some crimps, but not open barrel terminals. Get the correct crimper. The time wasted using the incorrect tool isn't worth it, and you'll end up with poor connections, and you may even end up doing some soldering that shouldn't have been necessary (for lack of the proper tool).
HF ratcheting crimper & Crimper dies. I noticed that the ends of the HF crimper that do the actual crimping are held in place by a couple of screws. Also, some other crimpers look very similar to the HF tool, but the crimper ends were different. So I figured the ends are probably replaceable - they are (they're called crimper dies). If you already have the HF ratcheting tool, you can get the correct open barrel crimper dies at Amazon.com - they aren't specifically for the HF crimper, but they fit. If you don't already have the HF tool, go ahead & get the correct open barrel crimper.
Last edit: 13 Oct 2013 10:28 by martin_csr.
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- madderkaw
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17 Sep 2013 14:04 #606793
by madderkaw
Replied by madderkaw on topic Tire pressure 650CSR
I have a 650 LTD which is very similat to a CSR. I run 28 front and 30 rear.I have BT 45's right now.
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17 Sep 2013 15:27 #606804
by bountyhunter
1979 KZ-750 Twin
Replied by bountyhunter on topic Tire pressure 650CSR
Go by loading and wear pattern. If you are burning the center strip out, use less pressure. I used to run about 30 psi front, 26 psi rear on my 750. I weigh 165, if you weigh more or ride a passenger, you have to run more pressure in the back.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- uncle nick
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18 Sep 2013 05:28 #606890
by uncle nick
1981 KZ650 CSR
Replied by uncle nick on topic Tire pressure 650CSR
Thanks for the replies guys. I've looked on the Avon site, I've got RoadRiders fitted but it says check the handbook for correct pressures.
At the moment I'm using 30psi front, 30 rear and the ride is very hard but it's too soon to see and wear.
Think I'll try dropping them a little and see if there's any change.
At the moment I'm using 30psi front, 30 rear and the ride is very hard but it's too soon to see and wear.
Think I'll try dropping them a little and see if there's any change.
1981 KZ650 CSR
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