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KZ1000R2 side stand bolt not coming off
- tommyboah
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.T
.Tommyboy
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- guitargeek
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- Elitist, arrogant, intolerant, self absorbed.
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1980 KZ750-H1 (slightly altered)
1987 KZ1000-P6 "Ponch"
1979 GS1000 "Dadzuki"
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- Nebr_Rex
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.
2002 ZRX1200R
81 GPz1100
79 KZ1000st daily ride
79 KZ1000mk2 prodject
78 KZ650sr
78 KZ650b
81 KZ750e
80 KZ750ltd
77 KZ400/440 cafe project
76 KZ400/440 Fuel Injected
www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=39120.0
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- 4TheKZ1000
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Just keep hacking, don't want my name attached to this FUBAR project.
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- Patton
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Tommyboah@gmail.com wrote: I've been trying to remove the side stand on my KZ1000R2 and it ain't coming off. I've loosened the nut on the back side and tried to push and hammer the bolt out without success. Feeling pretty stupid about the whole thing, and wondering if there is a trick of some sort? The bolt is loose and can be turned around and pushed slightly on its way out unit it jams into something...
.T
From the parts diagram on kawasaki.com the bolt appears to be a neighborhood variety shouldered bolt.
The nut needs to be more than loosened. It needs to be removed.
Am presupposing that the spring has already been removed.
Perhaps the bolt threads are damaged enough to prevent the thread end from passing through the top hole in the frame tab.
How far does the shoulder come out before the bolt jams?
If not already familiar, there's lots of good info on kawasaki.com, including parts diagrams, part names, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc. Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.
www.kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/37...imitstart=0&start=20
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- tommyboah
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Patton wrote:
From the parts diagram on kawasaki.com the bolt appears to be a neighborhood variety shouldered bolt.
The nut needs to be more than loosened. It needs to be removed.
Am presupposing that the spring has already been removed.
Perhaps the bolt threads are damaged enough to prevent the thread end from passing through the top hole in the frame tab.
How far does the shoulder come out before the bolt jams?
If not already familiar, there's lots of good info on kawasaki.com, including parts diagrams, part names, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc. Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.
www.kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/37...imitstart=0&start=20
Good Fortune!
I have removed the nut and I am guessing like you that some of the treads are messed up preventing the bolt from coming out. Kind of sick that giving it some good whacks with the hammer doesn't get the bolt forced through.
The shoulder only comes out a couple of millimeters. I thought I'd be smart and try to knock the bolt the other way, so I ground of the head, but it seems as if the upper part of the bolt has a larger diameter than the threaded side, so no luck there.
Maybe I should try to drill it out?
.T
.Tommyboy
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- Patton
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Tommyboah@gmail.com wrote: . . . I have removed the nut and I am guessing like you that some of the treads are messed up preventing the bolt from coming out. Kind of sick that giving it some good whacks with the hammer doesn't get the bolt forced through.
The shoulder only comes out a couple of millimeters. I thought I'd be smart and try to knock the bolt the other way, so I ground of the head, but it seems as if the upper part of the bolt has a larger diameter than the threaded side, so no luck there.
Maybe I should try to drill it out?
.T
Is the lower hole in the mounting tab threaded so that it's designed for the bolt to be secured by first threaded into the lower tab threads and then further secured with the nut?
The shoulder only comes out a couple of millimeters. I thought I'd be smart and try to knock the bolt the other way, so I ground of the head, but it seems as if the upper part of the bolt has a larger diameter than the threaded side, so no luck there. -- would imagine that the shoulder on the bolt can't be expected to pass through the lower hole in the mounting tab.
The shouldered bolt uses the shoulder to avoid over-tightening the kickstand by over-squeezing it inside the mounting tabs.
If the shouldered bolt is found after removal to be damaged, it may be replaced. Or a spacer may be fashioned to serve the same purpose with a standard unshouldered bolt.
A large enough drill bit should bore through the bolt head and shoulder. But be careful when drilling away the bolt threads so as not to damage any threads in the lower mounting tab hole, and if possible not to enlarge the lower mounting tab hole.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Patton
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If not already done, it might help to grip the bolt head with a pair of vice-grip pliers and pull on the bolt while turning it, which may help the threads engage to aid movement of the bolt upward through the threaded portion of the tab.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- floivanus
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Gonna have to drill a hole big enough to say pound a torx socket in so you can twist the bolt, then either wire wheel the threads on the other side, soak them in penetrant or just grind them off flush ( could have slag or something stuck in there from welding I don't know, long shot) and UN-screw the bolt.
Ya know, its a bolt general rule here bolts unscrew, if it dont budge spray it, or heat it. Maybe smack it once, but dont mess up the threads by smacking them with a hammer
my bikes; 80kz1000(project), 77 gl1000, 74 h2 (project)
Past; 78 kz1000, 83 kz550
Andrew
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- oldzed
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pivot the end of the claw hammer against the frame.
use that to pull the bolt outwards while turning it..
If the threads on the frame lug are stripped this will give you a lot more leverage to help rethread them.
regards
Craig
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- sbc1320
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oldzed wrote: Use the claw end of a claw hammer under the head of the bolt.
pivot the end of the claw hammer against the frame.
use that to pull the bolt outwards while turning it..
If the threads on the frame lug are stripped this will give you a lot more leverage to help rethread them.
regards
Craig
I think he done cut the head off of it so he can't go that route.
1980 KZ1000 LTD-B4(MK II engine) - Progressive suspension, MTC pistons, Dynojet Stage III, all wear items replaced, WFO paint scheme(1978), etc..
Past bikes- 2 1976 Kz900's, 5 1975-76 Honda CB750's, Honda 500 -4, Honda 250, Honda 125, Honda 100, Suzuki RM 250, Honda XL350, Kawasaki KLR 650, etc..
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