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Brake pads change
- karoliens
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29 Apr 2014 00:33 #630770
by karoliens
83' Kawasaki KZ750E-L2
Brake pads change was created by karoliens
Hello,
Recently I changed brake pads for my 83' KZ750 four. The previous rear pads had thicker not usable pad range then fronts. Fronts are left old, because seems to be good. The problem is that when i bolted up everything I feel drag when turning the wheels. Also the strange thing is that these slider bolts that returns caliper are different. One moves easily but the other has rubber round an is quite hard to move in/out. Should it be like that?
Recently I changed brake pads for my 83' KZ750 four. The previous rear pads had thicker not usable pad range then fronts. Fronts are left old, because seems to be good. The problem is that when i bolted up everything I feel drag when turning the wheels. Also the strange thing is that these slider bolts that returns caliper are different. One moves easily but the other has rubber round an is quite hard to move in/out. Should it be like that?
83' Kawasaki KZ750E-L2
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- koolaid_kid
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29 Apr 2014 04:58 #630778
by koolaid_kid
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
Replied by koolaid_kid on topic Brake pads change
They should both have the rubber cover, part #49006A, Dust Seal. They should certainly slide smoothly. Did you clean and grease them when you replaced the pads?
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- OnkelB
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29 Apr 2014 07:25 #630784
by OnkelB
77 KZ 650 B1, 82 GPz 1100 B2.
Replied by OnkelB on topic Brake pads change
Yes, the sliding bolts should be different. On each caliper one is all metal and the other has a plastic (or rubber) bushing on it - on each caliper the all metal bolt should go in the front hole and the bolt with the bushing should go in the rear hole.
As already mentioned the sliding bolts as well as their caliper holes should be thoroughly cleaned and the bolts should be greased, I do mine every winter using brake specific grease (ATE is my preference but other brands will probably work just as well).
As already mentioned the sliding bolts as well as their caliper holes should be thoroughly cleaned and the bolts should be greased, I do mine every winter using brake specific grease (ATE is my preference but other brands will probably work just as well).
77 KZ 650 B1, 82 GPz 1100 B2.
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- 650ed
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29 Apr 2014 07:41 #630786
by 650ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Replied by 650ed on topic Brake pads change
Here's the KZ750-E front brake diagram. Ed
Attachment 00008_2014-04-29.jpg not found
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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29 Apr 2014 07:43 #630787
by OnkelB
77 KZ 650 B1, 82 GPz 1100 B2.
Replied by OnkelB on topic Brake pads change
Thanks Ed. The bushing is part no. 92028 in the diagram.
77 KZ 650 B1, 82 GPz 1100 B2.
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- karoliens
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30 Apr 2014 03:44 #630881
by karoliens
83' Kawasaki KZ750E-L2
Replied by karoliens on topic Brake pads change
And what about the pads? Should the front pads be thinner than rears? Brake disk itself is thicker in the rear.
83' Kawasaki KZ750E-L2
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- karoliens
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02 May 2014 00:05 #631101
by karoliens
83' Kawasaki KZ750E-L2
Replied by karoliens on topic Brake pads change
OK, so I cleaned and lubed sliding bolts, but still the one with the bushing moves quite hard. I wonder if it could be that the bushing expanded because of lubrication over the time?
83' Kawasaki KZ750E-L2
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