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Tire balance 2 oz out!
- kzz1king
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Wayne
74 Z1 1075, 29 smoothbores, owned and ridden since 1976
Home built KZ1000 turbo setup
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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Try breaking it again, turning it on the rim. Also make sure the beads are fully seated and even.
Is this a Mag or Spoke wheel? If spoke, and rim lock mounted?
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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Wayne
74 Z1 1075, 29 smoothbores, owned and ridden since 1976
Home built KZ1000 turbo setup
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532476...s-budget-turbo-build
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532489-74-z-makeover
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- koolaid_kid
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1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- 650ed
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koolaid_kid wrote: 650ed, I think he may have the dot in the wrong place. Where should it be located?
Here are the instructions I received from Pirelli when I asked that same question about balancing their tires. Ed
Hello
WHEEL BALANCING
Always balance each tire and wheel assembly upon installation. Unbalanced tire/wheel assemblies can vibrate at various speeds, resulting in accelerated tire wear. Pirelli Street / dual purpose tires should be installed with the sidewall red dot(s) at the air valve if present. However these red dot(s) are designed to be used as a reference in balancing and we suggest balancing the tire and wheel as an assembly and to use the least amount of weight possible. This means that moving the reds dots 45 or even 90 degrees from the valve stem to help the assembly use less weight is possible and best.
Pirelli does not recommend the use of liquid balancer, liquid balance/sealers, or any other balance materials. Pirelli will not extend any warranty consideration for tires which have been injected with any type of liquid balancer, liquid balance/sealers, or any other balance materials. Tire and wheel assemblies should be balanced on a computer or static balance stand. Please check with your dealer/wheel manufacturer for the correct wheel weights for each application.
OTHER MOUNTING TIPS
(1) Check for directional arrow on tire. If present, mount tire so that arrow points in direction of rotation.
(2) Mount tire on rim with the valve stem beside the red(s) dot. If red(s) dot is not marked on the sidewall of the tire (indicating the lightest point) the tire may be positioned at any point on the rim.
(3) Clean and lubricate bead with tire mounting lubricant or soapy water. Always clean rim of all foreign matter. To seat bead, remove valve stem core and inflate tire.
(4) Do not inflate to more than 40 psi pressure to seat beads. Check bead control lines for proper seating. Never stand, lean or reach over the assembly during inflation as serious injury could result. Reinstall valve stem core and inflate to the recommended running pressure.
(5) Tubeless tires suitable for assembly with a tube on a tube-type rim may be used on tube or tubeless rims but not for applications that exceed 120 mph. When installing a tube in a tubeless tire do not tighten valve system lock nut until it is seated and inflated to proper riding pressure.
(6) Whenever you install a tube, care should be taken not to pinch the tube. Always dust the tube with talcum powder.
(7) When fitting a new TL (tubeless) tire a new valve should be used for safety reasons. Under acceleration and braking as well in during continuous riding at elevated speeds the centrifugal forces can cause a rubber valve stem to bend. Because of this a short rubber or even better a metal valve stem should installed in the wheel. Please consult with the dealer or wheel manufacturer for the correct valve stem. The correct short valve core should be used in these applications. Short valve cores have a higher preload than the long ones.
( Always use a valve cap that features a rubber seal to help prevent air loss.
(9) Always balance the tire and wheel after installing a new tire.
(10) During use do not exceed the max. load rating and max. pressure as indicated on the tire’s sidewall.
(11) When installing tire onto motorcycle be sure to check clearances. Tire width and diameter of indicated size vary between brands and types.
(12) These tires are for use only on vehicles for which "motorcycle tires" were originally specified by the manufacturer. Any other use could be dangerous and unsafe.
Safety Warning: Bodily Injury, including death, and damage to the motorcycle may result from improper use. Always follow the vehicle manufacturer's instructions.
North America Pirelli Moto
800 747-3554
www.us.pirellimoto.com
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- kzz1king
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Wayne
74 Z1 1075, 29 smoothbores, owned and ridden since 1976
Home built KZ1000 turbo setup
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532476...s-budget-turbo-build
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532489-74-z-makeover
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kzz1king wrote: Not my first rodeo! The dot was installed at valve (tubes). Took 2 oz. Then I rotated it 180 so the dot was across fro valve core. Still took 2 oz. I then moved the dot about 90 degrees off the valve core and cut the weight to under 1.5 ounces. Tire has a heavy spot I guess.
Wayne
74 Z1 1075, 29 smoothbores, owned and ridden since 1976
Home built KZ1000 turbo setup
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532476...s-budget-turbo-build
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532489-74-z-makeover
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- 650ed
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kzz1king wrote: Well I thought I could make it with less than 2 but it didnt happen. Wheel looks like poo with that much on em. Going to go with dyna beads or run without till tire is shot.
kzz1king wrote: Not my first rodeo! The dot was installed at valve (tubes). Took 2 oz. Then I rotated it 180 so the dot was across fro valve core. Still took 2 oz. I then moved the dot about 90 degrees off the valve core and cut the weight to under 1.5 ounces. Tire has a heavy spot I guess.
Wayne
I would contact the dealer that sold the tire to you and check on the tire maker's policy on out of balance tires. Good tire manufacturers normally will stand behind their products and will replace a tire if it is that far out of balance. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- kzz1king
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Wayne
74 Z1 1075, 29 smoothbores, owned and ridden since 1976
Home built KZ1000 turbo setup
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532476...s-budget-turbo-build
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/532489-74-z-makeover
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- bountyhunter
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+1 Tires that take a lot of weight to balance are usually out of round or just not right. Even when balanced, they don't run smooth. I remember a set of car tires I got way back when that I had balanced that took too much weight and they shook like hell at 70 - 80 mph. I went back to the shop and they took the wheels off one by one and spun them up on this machine and lathed the tread face to true it up (shaved rubber off until it was true). After that they took very little weight to balance and ran dead smooth up to 120 mph.650ed wrote:
kzz1king wrote: Well I thought I could make it with less than 2 but it didnt happen. Wheel looks like poo with that much on em. Going to go with dyna beads or run without till tire is shot.
kzz1king wrote: Not my first rodeo! The dot was installed at valve (tubes). Took 2 oz. Then I rotated it 180 so the dot was across fro valve core. Still took 2 oz. I then moved the dot about 90 degrees off the valve core and cut the weight to under 1.5 ounces. Tire has a heavy spot I guess.
Wayne
I would contact the dealer that sold the tire to you and check on the tire maker's policy on out of balance tires. Good tire manufacturers normally will stand behind their products and will replace a tire if it is that far out of balance. Ed
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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