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Plugging (air-ride) fork shafts
- daveo
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The holes currently covered by the o-ringed flanges will need to be plugged, to prevent fork-oil from escaping. I'm thinking of inserting 4mm set-screws, after tapping out the holes just deep enough to provide solid stops for the threads, while positioning the heads just below the surface.
Anyone have a better idea, other than replacing the shafts or leaving them alone?
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- daveo
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PLUMMEN wrote: Seems like the easiest way to fix them to me.
It was fairly simple, but I didn't gauge the depth of tapping by-hand very well. The 6mm long set-screws were about 30% too long, so the excess was ground off, otherwise the tips touched the spring coils in the tubes.
The whole process took about two hours, and it really cleaned-up and uncluttered the forks.
Its my opinion that the ride with Progressive front springs (and rear shocks), is like having a whole-different bike...far-better than the old, stock air-ride system.
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- Puffin
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KZ1000 J Long Term Owner
KZ1100
KZ1100 Spectre project
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- daveo
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Puffin wrote: Daveo i have also done this on my 1100. I used stainless grub screws loctited in place. It does indeed tidy up the front end especially if you loose some of the other clutter at the same time :woohoo:
I used silicone on the threads, thinking that would work good to seal them.
Which Loctite did you use, and how well did it work?
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- Puffin
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daveo wrote:
Puffin wrote: Daveo i have also done this on my 1100. I used stainless grub screws loctited in place. It does indeed tidy up the front end especially if you loose some of the other clutter at the same time :woohoo:
I used silicone on the threads, thinking that would work good to seal them.
Which Loctite did you use, and how well did it work?
Im sure the silicone will be fine Loktite i used the Blue one 242 ? im sure it says
KZ1000 J Long Term Owner
KZ1100
KZ1100 Spectre project
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