Trouble bleeding front brakes!

Markovich wrote: Hey, when I reply to a specific post does it come up tied in some way? I got to thinking that if I reply to one of you and don't specify my answer then it could get confusing. Just curious.

No, I don't think so. You should include a quote of the post you're responding to...

I'm not sure how you are bleeding your brakes but I have had great success using a hand actuated pump. They sell a good one at Harbor Freight for $35, a cheaper one for $20. The nice thing about the pump is it catches everything in a reservoir, this is how I change out my dirty fluid.

i use the same thing from harbor freight and had no problems bleeding the brakes

kaw-a-holic wrote: I'm not sure how you are bleeding your brakes but I have had great success using a hand actuated pump. They sell a good one at Harbor Freight for $35, a cheaper one for $20. The nice thing about the pump is it catches everything in a reservoir, this is how I change out my dirty fluid.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationHere's what I use (KD2222); it makes life soooo easy! I got it for my cars & truck, but it works great on the bike too. You must make a custom adapter using an extra reservoir cap. If anyone has an interest in how to do so please ask. Ed

OK, good advice on the vacuum bleeder. In fact I used one to bleed the system and when that didn't work I even reverse bled using the Mighty Vac as a pressure pump. I am not leaking anywhere I can see. Maybe I will try again with the vacuum bleeder. I don't know if it is wishful thinking but it seems to be getting better. I appreciate all the help and will let you know the results. Oh what fun we are having now! Thanks again, Keith

650ed wrote: Some folks have had success by tying the brake lever in the squeezed position over night which somehow let the air bubbles come up through the MC. Another thought is that you may want to try unbolting the splitter and calipers from the bike and turn them one way or another to let air bubbles out of any nooks or crannies they may be hiding in. Ed

I had to do what Ed advised after 3 days of bleeding, reverse bleeding, & Throwing tools
Came out next morning and wallah firm brake handle

Tying the lever back is the only foolproof way i have found to bleed old bike brakes works on all of them, old cb750, gs750 any kaw, crusty old harley.

I tie the lever back, and starting at the furthest caliper from the master, tap the brake parts with a wrench, working back to the master; everytime I tap the lines, caliper, splitter whatever buddles pop up in the master resevoir. And like I said, works on them all, and I have done some serious bike flipping and fixing.

So, I tied the brake handle as described last night. At that time I noticed something that eluded me. When I installed the new bars the brake line from the distribution block to the M/C was too long. So in a moment of genius I left it with a S shaped bend in it. Well, I think it may be where the air was trapped but I woke up today and have a firm handle now. So, in conclusion "tie the handle" is once again the best way to get it done. Thanks all of you guys for the help. I'm sure I will be asking more questions as I carry on. Thanks again, Keith

I'm glad to read that tying the lever worked! Ed

Awesome guys I had a heck of a time the last few times and since I'm changing out the lines and rebuilding the caliber and master cyl I've been worried about this. Will defently give it a try.

Can someone clarify the procedure for me? When you are tying the lever are any of the nipples open? Is the mc opened?

You will want all nipples closed and the top of the M/C open so the air can escape.