is this supposed to two parts?

As much as I'm enjoying the conversation I need to bring it back to my brakes for a minute :laugh:
I soaked the brake pad holders in PB Blaster for about 3 days, hit it with a screw driver handle followed by a rubber mallet. Then soaked it in steaming hot water hoping the heat would expand it. Tried hitting it again and got nothing. It's now soaking in wd40 in hopes something else will work. Any suggestions? Attached picture is how it currently looks.

They can be a real pita sometimes,if you have access to a vise try clamping them in there while you thump on it.

Maybe you need to dissolve the rust locking the parts together. You could soak them in CLR, soap, and water. Soap and water to remove the PB Blaster and WD40. CLR to remove the rust.

I'd hook it back up and use the brake pressure to spit it out.
Steve

The ultimate penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. theses are the results reported by machinst's workshop magazine.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

perhaps give that a try. Or if you need to get real extreme use muriatic acid. its what plating shops use to strip corrosion.

Psst, big hammer, just one good smack, then clean everything rust wise from the hole. All you're gonna muck up is the old brake pad. (You are planning on replacing right)

And as far as the economy, check out the oil and steel industry right now, massive layoffs, $100k jobs, that all would go to the local economies. As far as ebay, I sold a set of dual calipers, hoses and brake splitter for $9.95; that was on the second relist to

DoctoRot wrote: The ultimate penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. theses are the results reported by machinst's workshop magazine.

I second this. Been using this mix for a while. It seems (to me) to work a bit slower... ie: multiple applications, over time... but I've had success many times.

floivanus wrote: Psst, big hammer, just one good smack, then clean everything rust wise from the hole. All you're gonna muck up is the old brake pad. (You are planning on replacing right)

And as far as the economy, check out the oil and steel industry right now, massive layoffs, $100k jobs, that all would go to the local economies. As far as ebay, I sold a set of dual calipers, hoses and brake splitter for $9.95; that was on the second relist to

Maybe you should have listed them here. eBay tries to do that, "List your item at $.99 to attract more buyers" What they don't say is set a reserve or you will get in the ass when it is sold. The buyer can file a not as described, you have to pay return shipping, the buyer keeps the item and you lose everything plus the shipping. They keep their 10% no matter what. Pay Pal got their 3%. eBay tried that with the 54 Ford and the Vette. List at $99, NO, I listed at buy it now $8000 or best offer. Set the disregard at $4500 and sold it at $5100. Got my non refundable deposit, Dan was pissed, took almost three months for pick up, the buyer tried to pay by Pay Pal, (they can reverse it) I said no, if I don't have the money in my hands in two days, I'll relist it, he overnight-ed me a BOA check, I cashed it at BOA, then OK'd the pick up. The only one watching your back is you. No more Auto sales on eBay.
Steve

I'll try this over the weekend

If it's on the caliper side hydrolic pressure should push it out. Hook it up bleed it then pump it until it does.
Steve

Eesh..I don't have a garage and it's about 10 degrees outside haha. I won't have decent weather to work in until late February. I'll try the vice first.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationAnyone know if the caltric brake pads on ebay are any good? Two sets of front pads for $25