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Brake fluid flush
- Slopar00
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1 a vacuum bleeder would make it alot easier.
2 I should of done more research before tearing into my bike.
My bike is torn down in my garage and I can get brake fluid to drain so I can put clean fluid in. Any write ups available that might be for the motorcycle handicapped?
83 kz 440 bobber build. It's my 1st bike/ build I've ever done so it's coming along slow.
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- jackleberry
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Normally one flushes/changes brake fluid by bleeding the brakes while keeping the reservoir topped up with new fluid. Once it comes out clean, you're done.
Harbor freight sells a $5 one man bleeder kit that works well.
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- 650ed
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jackleberry wrote: If you've already drained the Brake fluid, it's going to be a lot of bother to get the air out.
Normally one flushes/changes brake fluid by bleeding the brakes while keeping the reservoir topped up with new fluid. Once it comes out clean, you're done....
+1 Much more difficult once you introduce air into the brake lines! Otherwise it's a 10 minute job. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Slopar00
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83 kz 440 bobber build. It's my 1st bike/ build I've ever done so it's coming along slow.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- jackleberry
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Slopar00 wrote: The fluid is still full or pretty much full. I only got maybe a tsp out in 45 minutes. Just didn't seem right so at that point I started doing research..
If this is the first time you've ever done this, then you may just not be opening the bleeder nipple enough. "Enough" is where it flows out effortlessly with a squeeze of the lever but before it begins to seep around the threads.. Which brings to mind another possibility: are you actually pumping the brake lever or just trying to let gravity do it?
If the above possibilities sound obvious, then the only thing left is that there may be some blockage in the brake circuit, which means you're going to have to take it all apart and clean/rebuild it.
1997 KZ1000P (P16)
2001 KZ1000P (P20)
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- Slopar00
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Hose on bleeder
Pump brakes
Hold brake
Crack bleeder
Watch the fluid flow.
I got a decent amount of fluid out a few times but I was working on it for about 45 minutes and never drained the reservoir.
83 kz 440 bobber build. It's my 1st bike/ build I've ever done so it's coming along slow.
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- SWest
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Steve
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- TexasKZ
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1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- SWest
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- Nessism
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Pump lever with hand two times holding on the second, crack bleeder open 90 degrees and fluid will flow quickly. Close bleeder at same time as the lever reaches the grip. Repeat.
On a different note, if the brake fluid is dark brown colored you should be tearing down the system not bleeding. Brake fluid needs to be changed every few years because is absorbs moisture in the air and starts to coagulate ( acquiring chunky bits inside). You should never try to bleed this sort of crud through the system. The system needs to be torn down and the lines replaced. The lines should be replaced regardless after 35 years since they are made of rubber. Do the maintenance properly one time, or you will be back into the system in sort order to finish the job.
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