- Posts: 3
- Thank you received: 0
fork oil seal replacement
- kzluv
- Offline
- User
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- blink543
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 285
- Thank you received: 2
redhawk4 wrote: A lot of KZ650 parts are the same as for the KZ1000's so most frame and wheel parts are not hard to come by. I did the fork seals on my KZ650B1 when I got it, it was pretty easy really, particularly with an air wrench to crack the Allen bolts in the bottom of the legs. Once you drop the front wheel you will see them in the center bottom of the fork leg. As someone else said, make sure you undo these with the spring pressure on. The air wrench is the key, otherwise the inners will turn and while there are special tools and a makeshift way using a whittled down broom handle that they show in the Haynes manuals, the air wrench is the way to go. I didn't find the seals hard to remove.
One thing to be careful of is the bike coming forward off the center stand while you are doing the job, that made things exciting if I remember . I'm doing mine on my KZ1000 in the next few days, I'm going to hook my engine hoist up to lift the front, so that can't happen.
If you get a manual so you get an overview of what you are doing it's really a pretty easy job, just make sure you have the bike supported well and take your time. It's a good idea to remove your gas tank to avoid that getting damaged when working top sides on the fork caps, depending on your bars you usually have to move them out of the way.
What about bushings? I'm being told those may need replacement? I definitely can't find those.....
Adam james
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- blink543
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 285
- Thank you received: 2
kzluv wrote: I did mine in 45 mins and back on the bike. Right tool for the job. If you need some help let me know,,,,
Which tool?
Adam james
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- ThatGPzGuy
- Offline
- Sustaining Member
- More Sparky than Speed Racer
- Posts: 1490
- Thank you received: 385
Again, what make you think your fork seals are going bad? If they are not leaking they are fine. Their job is to keep the fluid inside the forks. Now, if you want to take them apart and clean and flush everything to get 30 years of crud out of there, have at it. As far as the bushings go. I don't think I've ever had to replace a fork bushings on a street bike. On my motocross bikes sure, but street bikes are different.
If you are listening to a "mechanic" then he is probably trying to sell you something you don't need.
Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- jakedude
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 201
- Thank you received: 30
I have rebuilt several sets of front forks and have never had to replace the bushings. While it is possible, I would say it is unlikely.blink543 wrote:
redhawk4 wrote: A lot of KZ650 parts are the same as for the KZ1000's so most frame and wheel parts are not hard to come by. I did the fork seals on my KZ650B1 when I got it, it was pretty easy really, particularly with an air wrench to crack the Allen bolts in the bottom of the legs. Once you drop the front wheel you will see them in the center bottom of the fork leg. As someone else said, make sure you undo these with the spring pressure on. The air wrench is the key, otherwise the inners will turn and while there are special tools and a makeshift way using a whittled down broom handle that they show in the Haynes manuals, the air wrench is the way to go. I didn't find the seals hard to remove.
One thing to be careful of is the bike coming forward off the center stand while you are doing the job, that made things exciting if I remember . I'm doing mine on my KZ1000 in the next few days, I'm going to hook my engine hoist up to lift the front, so that can't happen.
If you get a manual so you get an overview of what you are doing it's really a pretty easy job, just make sure you have the bike supported well and take your time. It's a good idea to remove your gas tank to avoid that getting damaged when working top sides on the fork caps, depending on your bars you usually have to move them out of the way.
What about bushings? I'm being told those may need replacement? I definitely can't find those.....
Nothing lasts, nothing is finished, and nothing is perfect.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- redhawk4
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 640
- Thank you received: 64
1978 KZ1000A2 Wiseco 1075 kit
1977 KZ650B1
1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V
1968 BSA Victor Special 441
2015 Triumph Thunderbird LT
1980 Suzuki SP400
Old enough to know better, still too young to care
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- blink543
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 285
- Thank you received: 2
ThatGPzGuy wrote: He means use the right tool for the job and that will make things go easier.
Again, what make you think your fork seals are going bad? If they are not leaking they are fine. Their job is to keep the fluid inside the forks. Now, if you want to take them apart and clean and flush everything to get 30 years of crud out of there, have at it. As far as the bushings go. I don't think I've ever had to replace a fork bushings on a street bike. On my motocross bikes sure, but street bikes are different.
If you are listening to a "mechanic" then he is probably trying to sell you something you don't need.
I'm wanting to do this because when I push down on the forks and then they come up on the right one there's oil left on the exposed metal tube part. Like a thin layer.
Adam james
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- redhawk4
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 640
- Thank you received: 64
1978 KZ1000A2 Wiseco 1075 kit
1977 KZ650B1
1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V
1968 BSA Victor Special 441
2015 Triumph Thunderbird LT
1980 Suzuki SP400
Old enough to know better, still too young to care
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- mtbspeedfreak
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 1413
- Thank you received: 36
redhawk4 wrote: That just sounds like worn/dried out seals, replace those and the dust covers. Unless, the forks have been run without out oil and seals that are letting water and dirt inside, I doubt there will be anything more than the seals and dust covers requiring attention.
+1
It sounds like seals are just what you need!
2000 ZRX 1100
1976 KZ 900- Daily Driver
1980 LTD 550- Dalton Highway survivor!
If it has tits or tires, it'll give you problems!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- blink543
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 285
- Thank you received: 2
redhawk4 wrote: That just sounds like worn/dried out seals, replace those and the dust covers. Unless, the forks have been run without out oil and seals that are letting water and dirt inside, I doubt there will be anything more than the seals and dust covers requiring attention.
Ok thanks guys. ....,phew
Adam james
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- mtbspeedfreak
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 1413
- Thank you received: 36
2000 ZRX 1100
1976 KZ 900- Daily Driver
1980 LTD 550- Dalton Highway survivor!
If it has tits or tires, it'll give you problems!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- redhawk4
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 640
- Thank you received: 64
1978 KZ1000A2 Wiseco 1075 kit
1977 KZ650B1
1973 Triumph Tiger TR7V
1968 BSA Victor Special 441
2015 Triumph Thunderbird LT
1980 Suzuki SP400
Old enough to know better, still too young to care
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.