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'81 GPz steering neck bearings, any tips?
- MadShad
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I will follow the service manual and have access to a lift and my brother who has been working on bikes for over 40 years so I hope things will go smooth.
Any advice or tips for this specific application?
The kit I ordered was from All Balls Racing.
Thanks!
Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- loudhvx
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Remove any wiring and cables etc. Jack up the front of the frame and make sure nothing impedes the rotation of the steering. Then set it for ideally zero play or slightly loose, since it will tighten when locked down. Then lock it down per manual, and double check there is no additional drag in the rotation. Rotate back and forth a few times to work the grease and check again. When everything is torqued down, and there is no play, but still freely rotates, it should be good. After installing the forks and wheels and riding a bit, it may loosen up a bit, so go through it all again in a few months (just as Steve mentioned).
But you cannot judge the rotation freeness with cables and wires, so it's a long process to remove them and re-install them. I learned the hard way, and had to spend a better part of a day removing the bad taper races with a dremel. If I had to remove them again, I'd probably weld a pipe to the race and bang them out.
(Obviously, the stock ball-races just pound out like the manual says.)
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- Nessism
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- loudhvx
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1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- MadShad
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The old races came out without much fuss and we got the neck cleaned up and the new races pressed into place, at that point it was freezing in the garage and getting dark out so we called it a day. I hope to have it reassembled tomorrow as long as I didn't get pneumonia from the ride out to my brothers when it was 34 degrees :ohmy:
Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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- missionkz
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You are lucky that "notch" did not give you bad case of tank slappin' head shake!!MadShad wrote: Well my kit came with both upper and lower seals, so far so good on the install. Everything came apart without much of a fight and thanks to the lift the forks and wheel were able to stay together. It was amazing how bad the ball bearings felt once the weight was off and all the cables were removed, the was a HUGE notch right in the middle and it required a fair bit of effort to overcome it while just grabbing the trees.
The old races came out without much fuss and we got the neck cleaned up and the new races pressed into place, at that point it was freezing in the garage and getting dark out so we called it a day. I hope to have it reassembled tomorrow as long as I didn't get pneumonia from the ride out to my brothers when it was 34 degrees :ohmy:
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
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- loudhvx
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If you are considering a steering damper, now is the time to install a larger stop for the steering.
I would not ride a gpz hard without it.
Here is the stop I add. The set screw is only to hold it in place while welding. The set screw will not hold it in place by itself, permanently.
On this bike I used the steering damper that came on the 2 strokes. They still sell them brand new.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- MadShad
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I did get the bike buttoned back up yesterday, took a short test ride at speed then went and did some low speed tight figure eights in a parking lot and it felt much better!
I can see how getting those tapered races out of the neck would suck, I'll be sure to recheck after I put some miles on it.
Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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- carwash
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I have a mac 4 into 1 header I'll be using and am looking for a similar muffler.
MadShad wrote: Well my kit came with both upper and lower seals, so far so good on the install. Everything came apart without much of a fight and thanks to the lift the forks and wheel were able to stay together. It was amazing how bad the ball bearings felt once the weight was off and all the cables were removed, the was a HUGE notch right in the middle and it required a fair bit of effort to overcome it while just grabbing the trees.
The old races came out without much fuss and we got the neck cleaned up and the new races pressed into place, at that point it was freezing in the garage and getting dark out so we called it a day. I hope to have it reassembled tomorrow as long as I didn't get pneumonia from the ride out to my brothers when it was 34 degrees :ohmy:
1980 KZ550A
1980 CB750F
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- MadShad
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carwash wrote: love your exhaust set up. what muffler is that?
I have a mac 4 into 1 header I'll be using and am looking for a similar muffler.
I've got no idea, it was on the bike when I bought it.
I don't even know what header I have, I can tell you the tip on the yosh can isn't perpendicular to the ground the way its setting and it bugs me a little. That little detail is at the end of a growing list of things to do!
Shelbyville, Indiana. '80 KZ1000
No more of that talk or I'll put the leeches on you, understand?
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- carwash
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Thanks!
MadShad wrote:
carwash wrote: love your exhaust set up. what muffler is that?
I have a mac 4 into 1 header I'll be using and am looking for a similar muffler.
I've got no idea, it was on the bike when I bought it.
I don't even know what header I have, I can tell you the tip on the yosh can isn't perpendicular to the ground the way its setting and it bugs me a little. That little detail is at the end of a growing list of things to do!
1980 KZ550A
1980 CB750F
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