Reverse brake bleed (pump fluid in from bottom)

I've drained my front brake for an overhaul and am brainstorming ways to avoid bleeding. Seems to me that slowly pumping brake fluid in from the calipers up toward the M/C would result in less air getting trapped in the system. I'm thinking of trying this on my front brake with a large squeeze bottle and a little plastic hose. Anybody ever try this?:huh:

Post edited by: Broken Spoke, at: 2006/07/08 02:16

I can't think of any reason that it won't work.

Still sounds like to much effort and time to me.

I used a mighty-vac ($25 at Harbour Freight) to bleed the brakes on all 3 calipers of my ZN700.
Took roughly about 30~40 mins total from start to finish, and the brakes are firm enough that I could probably do a "stoppie" if I wanted to! :woohoo:

What you are proposing is not unheard of. In fact I first heard of it a while back on a dirtbike forum. Try to get your hands on a large syringe to do the job. Suppose to work pretty good.

I too use the mighty vac. My best friend, however, likes to figure out ways to get the calipers above the master cylinder. Interesting idea, and works for him in practice.

I advocate Russel Speedbleeders.

They make an otherwise arduous task easy and fast.

Of course, they would not work with the "reverse" method , since they are designed to *prevent* backward flow (of air, especially)...

Post edited by: Biquetoast, at: 2006/07/08 08:10

they make a tool for that. it's called a phoenix injector. i think you can rent one from parts stores. it works great for reverse fluid injection

del

Biquetoast wrote:

I advocate Russel Speedbleeders.

They make an otherwise arduous task easy and fast.

Still thinking about that one, My GPZ has 6 bleed screws in the front, YIPES! Gonna have to take out a loan!

They do work well, though.

the easiest way to bleed the brakes is to get a piece of clear tubing and run it into your fluid reservior. All you need to do is keep the tube just under the fluid level and slowly pump the brakes with the bleeder screw open then closing the screw when releasing. You can also just leave the bleeder screw open but it takes a little longer. I have done this several times on several cars and bikes,it always works cuz the bubbles go thru the tube and the air released into the reservoir escapes out of your system. when the bubbles stop you're done and will have a nice firm pedal.
Best part is there is no mess or wasted fluid.
now if you use this method on the front brake be sure to cover your tank so fluid don't get on your paint job... just to be on the safe side.