Do you HAVE to take apart the fork to change seal?

You need a 19 nut and have to fabricate some slots in to the nut plus some work on the lathe!!!

Here some pics






Source: www.forum.z-club-germany.de/viewtopic.php?t=845

Michael

An update. I got the forks apart. I attempted to build a socket but that turned out to be A Lot of work without a mill or lath. I went to Walmart and got one of the sockets that fit all. Walmart calls them a Gator Grip. These are the sockets seen on TV that had the rods that move leaving only those used to turn the nut or whatever. Put the Gator Grip on a long extension and turned the bottom Allen screw/bolt in or out. The Gator grip comes with a very high quality ratchet which I figure will break if too much torque is applied. I also don’t see the Gator Grip replacing any of my sockets for any kind of real work.
Now cleaning the parts up. One question however. I noticed it appears there is a fiber washer which was under the Allen head bolt. I have in my hot little hand the OEM type washer/seal which is made of copper. So should I remove the fiber washer or is that part of the fork? Or just stick the copper washer over it? I need to get this bike on the street so I can do some work on the other bike.

This should answer your question.

And it did. Thanks.

I loosen the allen bolt while assembled. One good smack with a rubber mallet on the wrench breaks them free.
Steve

Too late??
www.riskracing.com/pages/Seal_Doctor_Page.html

Davido, yeah too late. BUT I knew of the idea behind the seal doctor and watched some utube vids on the subject. I found some suitable plastic and cut out a seal tool in shape like what was shown. Beveled the edges with sand paper and was quite pleased with myself when finished. I released the wire clip and washer under the clip to gain better access to the seal. I found the seal was too hard to get the tool between the seal and the fork tube. This meant the only recourse to fix the seal leak was to replace the seal. Probably the biggest thing was I found water had gotten into the top of the seal and made a mess of things. The wire clip and washer needed a bit of cleaning up to be presentable again. This is now area I will had to keep an eye one. The other side did not have water intrusion and was not leaking either. I forget the name of the rubber boots that fit over the seals and supposed to keep things out of the seal but I have some new boots to go along with the new seals. Tim

Another update: Got the old seals out. What a pain. These seals were like they were welded in and the guy who did the seals for me last time got cussed. I can't say for sure yet but I think he used a sealant in the seals when installed. Now that the seals are out I'm going to clean every ting with brake cleaner and put it back together. I have new progressive rate springs to go in and then Kawasaki fork seals. The old seals were bought off ebay before I was aware of some great parts places.

Final update because the 900 is back on the road. No leaks in the front forks. New rubber all the way around and new fork springs. The springs are progressive and did not require spacers for pre load on this particular motorcycle. I called the company because I wanted clarification on the amount of fork oil. They recommended I fill fork oil to the FSM specification's which I did. Over all I am pleased with the way the bike running and handling. Next on the agenda is clean, lube, adjust the chain and a oil/filter change.

So in 6,000miles I get to change the fork oil again. I think I will measure the amount coming out and replace with the same Should be close enough for government work. A big thank you to all those who helped me along the way. Keep the rubber side down, Tim

Not all of the oil will come out. Refil to the specs in the manual.
Steve

OK maybe you can settle a disagreement between me and a long time Z rider who did his own work. According to what he saw in his Kawasaki FSM it gives a measurement for the fork oil. He says the measurement is taken with the forks in. I have a 1st addition FSM which is not clear on if the oil level is done with the fork springs in or out. He also said he just put in the number of ounces of oil the book called and called it good. After looking at various measuring tools, my vision was if the measurement was taken from the top of an extended fork the spring had to be out so there was no interference. I wish I could say a cold one was in order for the one who is right at the expense of one who is wrong but he doesn't drink. Darn.

Depending on the year and model the Kawasaki Service Manual may or may not give the exact measurement from the top of the fork tube to the fork oil, and it may say to leave the spring in or take it out depending on the model. The KZ650-C1 manual says "measure the oil level with the spring in the inner tube", but the manuals for some different KZ models specify taking the spring out. Ed

On my Z1 the spring is in, the level is 14" from the top. I tried it your friends way and the front end was locked up. I compressed it a few times with the caps off then it measured high still. I used a baby snot sucker with a tube on it to lower the level to 14".
GOOD TO GO
Steve