condensation Remover

Scirocco wrote: A big soldering iron and tin is the ultimate weapon to close pinholes.

That is exactly what I used... though nothing that fancy.

Several days after getting a tank professionally painted, it developed several pinhole leaks. I was not very happy to say the least.
But having done quite a bit of soldering ever since I was a kid, I felt I could give it a shot.
I found a 1/2" rod of bronze and stuck a wooden handle on it and cut it at about a 45 degree angle to give it a tip, and ground it smooth.
I heated it red hot and stuck it into a small puddle of gasoline to see if it would ignite. It did not.
Next I used a small piece of sandpaper to sand the paint down to the metal in a tiny spot centered on the pinhole leak.
I filled the tank most of the way with water and situated the tank so a bubble of air would form where the pinhole was.
Then I used some plumbing acid flux on the small spot keeping it off the paint.
I heated the rod and tinned it with lead-free solder.
Then I heated the rod again and placed the tip right on the bare spot and fed in some solder. The solder naturally flowed then formed a smooth little patch over the bare metal right up to the paint. The paint did not get burned that I could see. I think the temp was just right to melt the solder, and the water in the tank prevented the metal from getting hot enough to burn the paint.

There was one area that had extensive pinholes, but luckily that area is covered up by the seat. Only one little pimple of solder is visible on the tank normally. Most people don't seem to notice it. It's shiny and I guess even though it's a different color, it blends in. I've never had anyone ask why there was a solder bump on the tank.

I didn't have too much hope for this repair, but it could not have gone any better. 6 years later the repairs seem to be holding just fine.
I really need to get better photos of it. I wish I had made a video at the time, but I was expecting the worst.

You did a really good soldering job loudhvx, both thumbs up!!!
I tin plated my outer tank surface, (insane), and fill the emblems depression with tin 20 years ago.
Had to remove the emblems holder strips first before i do switch on the soldering iron.

Nessism wrote: Kleenstrip Metal Prep at Home Depot for $16/gallon. Dump it in a tub, drop in your tank, fill up tub with enough water to cover. Use two gallons of the MP if in a rush. It will eat off all that rust post haste and leave the tank sparkling clean .

If there are holes thru the metal I advocate tape on the outside to plug them and then use Caswell's tank sealer. Caswell's is THICK, almost like cold honey. It will reinforce the metal wonderfully.

What does it do to the paint? Although a rattle can paint job is often an improvement, not all rusty tanks need to be stripped and painted. 16 bucks a gal isn't enough to make me want to ruin a paint job in order to save a few bucks. (I also get 10% off - military vet discount at HD)

I've seen pics of some really nice professional looking tank coatings, done, but for the most part, they NEVER just coat the inside of a tank evenly,. I wish I had taken some pics of my Kz1000 tank;s kreme job before I removed it. it looked like hell. I removed the kreme job, then used metal rescue, it I remember right to de-rust the tank. (it's been 3-4 years since I removed the kreme)

Most tanks that get coated do not have any holes in them, but for some reason, they think this will fix their problem of plugged carbs, or vacuum leaks. I feel that a lot of people that coat their tanks, do not have a good grasp of fuel system and the internal combustion engine theory.

loudhvx wrote:

Scirocco wrote: A big soldering iron and tin is the ultimate weapon to close pinholes.

That is exactly what I used... though nothing that fancy.

Several days after getting a tank professionally painted, it developed several pinhole leaks. I was not very happy to say the least.


There was one area that had extensive pinholes, but luckily that area is covered up by the seat. Only one little pimple of solder is visible on the tank normally. Most people don't seem to notice it. It's shiny and I guess even though it's a different color, it blends in.

What a drag! Now THIS would be one of those situations where >I< would coat the tank. Such nice paint, and it starts to leak. bummer I feel for you brother.

It's strange. I tested the tank before getting it painted, and the inside was very clean. As you can see from where the leaks were, they were in areas that would be very hard to inspect. I think there must have been a few rust spots that came close to the outer surface and when the shop did some light sanding etc, they must have just nicked away enough metal that gas could bleed through. The leaks were very slow, more like a wet spot where the paint flaked off. They didn't really drip. I took a a small awl and poked at the spots and found they were pinholes, but the metal was very solid around the pinholes.

I had one tank that was coated on the inside somehow, and it was a total mess, so I generally stay away from kreme etc.

After 6 years, I haven't had problems with it so far...knock on wood.

loudhvx wrote: It's strange. I tested the tank before getting it painted, and the inside was very clean. As you can see from where the leaks were, they were in areas that would be very hard to inspect. I think there must have been a few rust spots that came close to the outer surface and when the shop did some light sanding etc, they must have just nicked away enough metal that gas could bleed through. The leaks were very slow, more like a wet spot where the paint flaked off. They didn't really drip. I took a a small awl and poked at the spots and found they were pinholes, but the metal was very solid around the pinholes.

I had one tank that was coated on the inside somehow, and it was a total mess, so I generally stay away from kreme etc.

After 6 years, I haven't had problems with it so far...knock on wood.

Water settles out on the bottom.. and specifically into the seams and low spots, then eats the metal. Those are almost the same spots the XS1100 tank rusted through in the pic I posted above. Along the seam and the rear mounting bracket spot welds. It is just high enough to oxidate the metal after the gas / water evaporates over a period of years. I estimate that the XS1100 sat ~10-15 years judging from the 1998 MO plate that was on it. I bought it in 2012.



YES, the kreme in my tank was a total mess (white crap), and bugged me every time I gassed up my bike.. I looked inside to see how much gas was in, it and it was a real eye-catcher. lol

This video is a guy explaining using "red coat" AFTER he had it powder coated.. He seems to like the stuff.



The ad on CL said "80 or 81". He obviously had no idea even what year the bike was. This is / was the most screwed up bike I have ever rescued. I still have yamaha parts from that one cluttering up my crib. I was happy when I watch that tail light go down the road. I never did get my helmet back.



Another nice paint job. I wish I had my Kaw painted that color.