Excessive new chain stretch?

TexasKZ wrote: The only difference between an X ring and an O ring chain is the cross-section shape of the rings. It is not visible once the chain is assembled.

The sprocket carrier bearing is number 601 in the diagram.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...rear-wheel-hub-chain

Good find on the sprocket carrier bearing! I was in a hurry, and didn't have time to look up the part.

Sort of not visible.


This is the difference between the X vs the O-ring chains.



Of course, the NO-ring chains belong on combines and lawn equipment, etc.

I just noticed this o-ring trying to make an escape!


This is a pretty worn out chain. lol

BTW – keep a length of the old chain because use can use it as a tool to hold the countersprocket when removing it.

Here's a cheap way to hold the countershaft sprocket using a piece of old drive chain with 2 thin bolts. Put chain around countershaft sprocket and bolt the ends together around the swingarm pivot. It cannot slip, you won't need a second person to stand on the brake, and you will not stress the brake components. Ed

Regarding the bearings... I do seem to recall there being three sets of bearing in the kit for the rear wheel, so hopefully that means the sprocket bearing was replaced as well? I didn't do the actual replacement myself, I just gave the wheels and the new bearings to the shop at the dealer and they swapped it all out for me. I DID do the swing-arm bearings myself. Twice. Had to knock one back out again because I got it all together and realized I forgot to put the spacer tube in between the bearings. I don't have a center stand on the bike but I'll try to find a way to lift up the rear wheel so I can check to make sure there's no sideways play in the swingarm.

Thanks for the gearing suggestions. It might be a couple weeks before I have a chance to pull the cover and count teeth on the front sprocket. I'm not too concerned about losing power on the take-off, it's not like I'm racing. I just want to bring down the RPMs when I'm out of the highway. And it may be that the other set of sprockets I have are the correct ones for highway riding -- if so I'll just swap them out and see what difference it makes, then have that information on hand for when I'm ready to order the new set of sprockets and chain.

I don't know what kind of price a 'good' chain goes for, but I paid just under $100 for this one so I was expecting it to be of good quality. Definitely not an ebay special, this one was straight from the dealer (which could also explain the price tag).

Regarding adjusting the wheel by half a mark to tighten the chain... Yeah I obviously expected to have to move it more than that. I think the chain was slapping the frame every time I hit a bump although there are no scuffs in the paint. But seeing that much slack in it, my first thought was to check the rear wheel since I figured it had shifted. I had the cover off the front sprocket recently when I replaced the clutch cable and didn't notice any wear on that sprocket at the time, but I'll check more carefully when I count the teeth.

Thanks for the sprocket ratio suggestions, it gives me some idea of where to shoot. I have this feeling the sprockets I used were from the J, and the ones from the LTD probably would be more correct for the highway. Not much riding weather left this year but there's still time for some experimentation before I put it away for the Winter.

I think you will find that the really high quality chains from DID, EK and such are well past $200.

TexasKZ wrote: I think you will find that the really high quality chains from DID, EK and such are well past $200.

This statement is especially true when buying most anything at a dealer. My local Kaw dealer want $150.00 for a chain that was ~$50.00 on eBay . Another local Honda dealer that does not, and would not sell junk parts, wanted around $250.00 for a off brand chain. (I personally know the owner and his main mechanic)

While I try to help support local businesses, I also have myself and my old kaw to support. My original "endless" (no master link) 630 EK60S chain came on the bike . The chain I bought off of eBay is a EK SRO 630 chain . It cost me ~119.00 with free shipping.



I have a huge mistrust of all repair shops in general. And after the repair shops hidden camera / cut CV boot news stories ran here years ago, then having it happen to me at a local chain tire store, after I had just replaced them, pretty much confirmed to me that this planet needs an enema. They would fail the customers cars that came in for state inspection because the CV boots were cut / torn.. except THEY were the ones doing the cutting. (had a hooked knife) An easy $600- $1000.00 dollar repair that actually cost them ~$40.00 for new boots. >"You DO know that your car will NEED and alignment after the 1/2 shafts are replaced?"<.

Charged them for rebuilt 1/2 shafts, but were actually giving them the shaft.

I worked at a now defunct import car repair shop a long time ago. This guy was the epitome of a thief,. It definitely did not "work out" between us, besides him being a prick, he was a thief> he falsified his billing to charge twice what materials he actually used (brake fluid at 5.00 per 1 oz squirt of brake fluid etc. He even had a method of cleaning up the oil sump cover / bolts on a Porsche / VW engine using carb cleaner a blow gun and compressed air to get any grease /grit out of those little cracks and crevices to make it appear he actually removed and cleaned the oil sump screens during his high $$ oil changes. He used this method to make them look like they were actually removed and cleaned, like the customer requested and was charged labor for. I refused to be an accessory to his thievery, and packed up my tools and left. I should have turned him in to authorities.

So for anyone that feels all warm and fuzzy just dropping off something ANYWHERE, never just assume it to be right. Maybe trust, but confirm.