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Rear shock questions
- Radski
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I'm also planning on lowering the front end 1" so I'm looking to do the same in the rear? Should I be looking at 12.5" or 12" shocks and any brands come to mind?
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- Stu23
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YSS seem to do some nice, cheapish shocks, probably better value as Asian built. Several ranges of increasing performance and price.
A step up gets you to ikons. The old Konis, now built in Australia.
My current Zephyr wears a pair of adjustable 2Win shocks from Shock Factory. £300 a pair and probably OTT for a kz400 (and the Zephyr if I'm honest!).
Some options to consider here...
Bike Revival
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- davido
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www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/594313-csr1000-project-build
CB550 (1978)
CB500/4 (1972)*
KZ1000CSR (1981)
XT 600E (1999)
TDM900 (2003)
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- Radski
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- davido
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Tyres with a different aspect ratio will also lower the back end. I dont know what is standard on your bike or what other sizes are available but its worth looking into.
Another option (the cheapest) is to take some foam out of your seat.
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/594313-csr1000-project-build
CB550 (1978)
CB500/4 (1972)*
KZ1000CSR (1981)
XT 600E (1999)
TDM900 (2003)
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- Stu23
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Each to his own, but my approach would be to cut the seat down if I had to (very Eddie!) but not change the designed in geometry, suspension travel and ground clearance. I'd always use stock length shocks or put slightly longer ones on to speed up the steering and give more clearance if the bike needs it. Then again, I don't have short legs!
If I absolutely had to lower the suspension, I'd go down the same amount front and rear, or slightly more at the front. Tipping it forward will speed up your steering and tipping backwards will make it turn slower and possibly run wide (same effect as a pillion).
If you're happy with the way it steers, keep it flat.
If it steers slowly and won't hold a line, drop it more at the front than the rear.
If you have issues with high speed wobbles, tipping it back a bit may add stability at the expense of steering feel.
Something else to think about... if you're reducing the suspension travel, you may need stiffer springs so you don't bottom out over the bumps. And if you're not reducing the travel, you may run out of clearance between wheel and rear mudguards, axle and exhaust, front mudguard/bottom yoke, etc. All things to check!
Short answer: Go down half an inch at both ends and you'll probably be OK!
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- Radski
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davido wrote: I have the basic model of YSS and they have ,around 2cm adjustment in them. from what I remember. Have a look on the website and see what lengths they offer,you might find what youre looking for.
Tyres with a different aspect ratio will also lower the back end. I dont know what is standard on your bike or what other sizes are available but its worth looking into.
Another option (the cheapest) is to take some foam out of your seat.
I looked at YSS US website and to be honest its JUNK. I may have to call them to see what the deal is. My stocks measure something between 326-328mm or 12.8-13". which is weird I thought theyd be 325mm spot on.
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- Radski
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Stu23 wrote: Long answer:
Each to his own, but my approach would be to cut the seat down if I had to (very Eddie!) but not change the designed in geometry, suspension travel and ground clearance. I'd always use stock length shocks or put slightly longer ones on to speed up the steering and give more clearance if the bike needs it. Then again, I don't have short legs!
If I absolutely had to lower the suspension, I'd go down the same amount front and rear, or slightly more at the front. Tipping it forward will speed up your steering and tipping backwards will make it turn slower and possibly run wide (same effect as a pillion).
If you're happy with the way it steers, keep it flat.
If it steers slowly and won't hold a line, drop it more at the front than the rear.
If you have issues with high speed wobbles, tipping it back a bit may add stability at the expense of steering feel.
Something else to think about... if you're reducing the suspension travel, you may need stiffer springs so you don't bottom out over the bumps. And if you're not reducing the travel, you may run out of clearance between wheel and rear mudguards, axle and exhaust, front mudguard/bottom yoke, etc. All things to check!
Short answer: Go down half an inch at both ends and you'll probably be OK!
Yes thanks for all that. I do plan on going at least an inch up front, so may only go 1/2" at the back. Getting new tires so will see where it sits with the stock shocks first. Most shocks I've looked at have adjustments to pre load so I'm not too worried about bottoming out.
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- 531blackbanshee
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progressive builds decent shocks in whatever length you want.sounds to me like you are looking for an 11 1/2 or 12 inch long shock.they will set you back around $300.00 or buy some air shocks( dirtyworks-kc.com/products/dirty-air-rear-shocks ) and adjust it to where you like and when you pick up your girl or a keg you can pump em up with the handy dandy lil air pump you'll be carrying :) www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1468/mini-gauge-pump
hth,
leon
skiatook,oklahoma 1980 z1r,1978 kz 1000 z1r x 3,
1976 kz 900 x 3
i make what i can,and save the rest!
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