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KZ900 Front Brakes
- Lebowski
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What's the story on these wheels? I haven't seen them on any other KZ bikes that I've looked at. When I get some more money I may trade them out, but for now I'll just be cruising around the neighborhood.Just a heads up, I'm not sure i'd use those old invader wheels on a Z900, apart from being heavy, they were prone to crack where the spokes meet the rim.....
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- Mikaw
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1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- Mikaw
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This is a non handed caliper. Used on the Kz900 “A” , LTD and the Kz1000 “A’s”
Here is a handed used on the Kz1000 LTD models.
1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- 750 R1
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Just google "invader wheels broken welds" they aren't something I'd take a risk on.. There's stories of broken invaders all over the net...
What's the story on these wheels? I haven't seen them on any other KZ bikes that I've looked at. When I get some more money I may trade them out, but for now I'll just be cruising around the neighborhood.Just a heads up, I'm not sure i'd use those old invader wheels on a Z900, apart from being heavy, they were prone to crack where the spokes meet the rim.....
i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc151/BlueCo...ris/invaderwheel.jpg
i120.photobucket.com/albums/o175/DannyF_...rtwo/invadercopy.jpg
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- slmjim+Z1BEBE
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- Enjoy Life! IT HAS AN EXPIRATION DATE!
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slmjim read an article by Kevin Cameron a lonnnggg time ago about caliper in front (leading side) vs caliper on rear (trailing side) of fork legs. Let's see if he can remember the essence:Lebowski post=847911Thanks Scirocco. German website is the only option for these rings? Expensive as hell!
Is there a preference on whether the brakes should be front or rear mounted on the front wheel? I've seen both. I have the forks arranged for a front mount, which looks better to me.
Briefly, it has to do with the physics of placing a mass (calipers) closer to or farther away from the steering stem axis (pivot) of the fork legs when the fork legs are considered as a lever and pendulum.
Consider the forks as a lever (pendulum) that pivots around the axis of the steering stem.
A mass farther away from the steering axis as projected through the steering head (on the leading side of the fork legs in this case) will effectively be weight on a longer lever (distance from the steering axis to the calipers' mass=longer lever), exacerbating the effect of inertia, increasing steering effort & possibly contributing to fork oscillation (the pendulum effect) that might result in a tank slapper. Mass on the trailing side of the fork legs will be much closer to the steering axis (much shorter lever/pendulum), reducing the relative effect of the same mass when the forks are considered as a lever, much negating the effect of the mass of the calipers on the pendulum effect. Not necessarily much of an issue on street bikes unless prone to tank slappers anyway, KC's article dealt with the effects re: race bikes of the day. I think that catches the essence.
We recently bought a parts lot that has two of what we think are the same calipers, but we don't know what the came off of. If you're in CONUS, we'd be happy to send a dust seal ring if you're unable to source one locally.
We've dealt with creeping crud in Z1 calipers & MC's for decades. We usually use a dremel too, with a very small, very fine stainless steel wire brush to gently clean the caliper seal groove. We then use a Q-tip to wipe a coat of white brake grease into the piston seal groove prior to inserting the seal. The grease behind the seal helps prevent slow weeping of brake fluid. If you're seeing a rapid leak that prevents building pressure, follow the advice in previous posts as an outright leak indicates something not
Posts above have good advice in installing seals. Note that some caliper piston seals are very slightly asymmetrical on the side that contacts the piston. That is, not perfectly square. If so, the 'taller' edge should face away from the disk, or toward the bleeder hole bore in the caliper's piston bore.
Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE
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A Rider looks at your odometer and tags.
1973 ('72 builds) Z1 x2
1974 Z1-A x2
1975 Z1-B x2
1993 CB 750 Nighthawk x2
2009 ST1300A
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- z1kzonly
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Livin in "CheektaVegas, NY
Went thru 25 of these in 40 yrs.
I SOLD OUT! THE KAW BARN IS EMPTY.
More room for The Old Girl, Harley 75 FLH Electra Glide,
Old faithful! Points ign. Bendix Orig. carb.
Starts everytime!
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- Lebowski
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Also, when I removed the piston from the cylinder, I noticed that the little seal that goes on the inside of the cylinder has a chunk missing. It almost looks by design, but this doesn't seem right. Can anyone confirm? This could be why I have leaks...
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- Mikaw
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1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- Lebowski
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FYI - piston and cylinder both look and feel smooth. I don't see any gashes or significant etching. I think it was probably just an installation error. We will see.
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- Mikaw
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1976 KZ 900 A4 kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/613548-1976-kz-900-a4
1976 KZ 900 B1 LTD
1978 KZ 1000 B2 LTD
1980 KZ 750 E1
Kowledge Speaks, But Wisdom Listens.
Jimi Hendrix.
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- TexasKZ
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Definitely be sure that the grease is brewed for brake systems. I suspect most any brand will do, though I know Volvo service departments use some high quality stuff that seems extra slippery and does not have the stigma of low cost. I mooched some from a friend.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- Lebowski
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