<<<>>>Fork holder tool

www.kzrider.com/media/kunena/attachments...ages/forktool1kk.jpg

According to your manual, the bottom tool is the one that is required for your bike...and it functions in a different manner than the top three tools. Those top three have a socket-like tip that fits over the top of the inner cylinder while the bottom tool fits inside the top of the inner cylinder....unless, of course, you are using non-standard forks

I don't know how much different the later CSR models are than the '79 SR. Follow the link in my signature and you'll find the details of what I used to put my fork back together. For the 650B, I had to fashion a rod with a tapered end to hold the damper rod.

- Nate >>

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JMK:

On page 7-29, the part listed is 57001-1011, which is the wedge-shaped tip which fits on the t-handle. This part fits inside the inner cylinder. Strangely enough, this part is still available (ask Jeff about it if you are interested (price is less than US$30, I think). However, to loosen the the allen bolt, you may have to hit it with an air tool and about 100psi. Once that is loose, if you don't have the special tool (57001-1011), the wooden dowl (3/8" X 36") (with the end thickened by wrapping with duct tape) trick will work (just jam it in the top to slow the inner cylinder spinning, while loosening the lower allen bolt)...you'll also need this to re-assemble. If, on the other hand, you can look into the fork tube and it appears that a bolt-like top is there...and the representation in the manual is misleading/wrong (not unknown in the Kawasaki manuals), then get a 'gator grip' socket (found at Walmart, US$10) will do to hold the inner cylinder from spinning

if you have access to a good air ratchet just spin the allen bolt on bottem of legs loose.

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I use a broom handle cut at a 45 degree angle. Works like a charm but you need a buddy to help.

As Don mentioned, the broom handle works great. My only concern was getting the proper torque on the Allen bolt, as the inner cylinder would spin on the broom handle before the required torque was reached. I made sure threads and bolt were clean, washers in good shape, and used a very slight amount of removable Loctite. 2nd riding season and no problems so far. Good luck.

book for my 84 550 showed the tool at the bottom of your pic (the tapered one), but I had great success with a 19mm head bolt welded to a length of rod (which happened to have been suggested by the Clymers manual...)
we (other half and I) used visegrips to hold the rod, but one could make a "T" handle just as easily - or just bend the rod into an "L" shape...
cost of our tool: a little work, and electricity to run the welder. Parts were free (salvaged)

Fork holder tool - Improvised
www.kzrider.com/media/kunena/attachments...mages/fork_jig_3.jpg

Innovation! Creative motorcycle mechanics! I love it!:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Just as long as it works!