Cleaning my 650 chain

thats cool man. I do enjoy new info. Tell me about what the numbers have to do with size or quality. I just heard of o-ring chains and i do have an idea of that, but the number thing confuses me. I need to get a new rear sprocket now, I can use the one i have now as a comb

I think I'll try the tranny fluid.
I've always used WD40 on a rag. It works pretty good, if the chain is warm. I also really like the smell (what's in that stuff?).

I used WD-40 on mine, before I changed it, on my 83 650.

The 81(?)to 83 used the 630 chain. The years before, and after, used the more popular 530. You can convert them over to use the 530. It's cheaper, and lighter, in the long run to use the 530.

Patton wrote:

so just spray lube occasionally with WD-40 to prevent rust and it seems to last forever, no problems, no kinks, no rust, no fling off, no undue stretch.

I read an internet article about NOT using WD-40 on o-ring chains. It has something to do with the reaction to the o-rings. If I recall, the same guy routinely got 30-35,000 miles out of an o-ring chain, and lubed it with regular chain lube or oil. He was using an automatic chain oiler too. I have to find that article...

Anyway I clean my chain every few months with a rag soaked in penetrating oil. I lube it every 200 miles, when it's hot. It's a cheap non o-ring chain from JC Whitney, so far its got 8,000+ miles and doing great.

Delete double post

Post edited by: OKC_Kent, at: 2006/10/11 17:03

WD40 has petroleum distillates which are no good for rubber, but I'm sure varies greatly depending on the type of rubber. I know if WD40 is used even close to rubber bands, the bands will quickly begin weathering, cracking, become soft and soggy ect. Diesel fuel or kerosene is no good for rubber either. My guess is all the crap chain oils that are "safe for orings" also contain petroleum distillates, hence the "safe" but rappid going to hell for most guys chains.

i believe that tranny fluid is good for rubber, but tell me what do you think Ron. Also for tough grease tranny fluid is a good cleaner, it soaks into that grease and loosens it up. It can also be used to clean upheads on car engines, not bikes, but hey Gumout works good too. Tell me your views on tranny fluid Ron

Here is the article I read about cleaning a chain and NOT to use WD-40. WD-40 won't go near my chain.

WebBike World Link

Howdy -- with titillating Cliff notes
from "Chain Size 101"

Chain sizes are based on the Rule of Eights so that with a 520 chain the 5 means 5/8" between two roller centers (the pitch) and the 20 means 2.0/8 = 2/8 = 1/4" width. Size 525 has the same 5/8" pitch and 2.5/8" = 5/16" width. Size 530 has the same 5/8" pitch and 3.0/8 = 3/8" width. Size 630 has 6/8 = 3/4" pitch and 3.0/8 = 3/8" width. And so on. Sizes 520, 525 and 530 are all wide enough to fit on a 520 sprocket, but a only the 530 chain will fit on a 530 sprocket. Would guess it's probably best to have an exact match for both chain and sprocket. Happy trails, and no pop quizzes, please.

If transmission fluid does the trick, sounds like a good safe cleaner to me. Can't see any problem there.

Patton wrote:

Howdy -- with titillating Cliff notes
from "Chain Size 101"

Chain sizes are based on the Rule of Eights so that with a 520 chain the 5 means 5/8" between two roller centers (the pitch) and the 20 means 2.0/8 = 2/8 = 1/4" width. Size 525 has the same 5/8" pitch and 2.5/8" = 5/16" width. Size 530 has the same 5/8" pitch and 3.0/8 = 3/8" width. Size 630 has 6/8 = 3/4" pitch and 3.0/8 = 3/8" width. And so on. Sizes 520, 525 and 530 are all wide enough to fit on a 520 sprocket, but a only the 530 chain will fit on a 530 sprocket. Would guess it's probably best to have an exact match for both chain and sprocket. Happy trails, and no pop quizzes, please.

According to Jeff, at Z1...that is correct. You don't want a 630 sprocket and 530 chain. I did look at both sprockets after I pulled my 630s off, and there is a difference. I wouldn't want to mix them, as they just didn't look right, or like they would work for long.

Keep in mind, if the chain or sprockets aren't correct, you'll wear through the sprockets much faster.

Jeff explained that you should change both the chain and the sprockets at the same time, since it's frequently the chain that wears out first. It's just the sprocket that you more likely to notice first.

Howdy -- and many thanks for reference to the very comprehensive article on chain maintenance which was thoroughly enjoyable. Interesting to see the WD40 vs. O-ring wars still raging. From a strictly mechanical efficiency standpoint, the properly lubed non-o-ring chain probably outperforms the o-ring version in all respects hands down (believed preferred by those running at the track and strip). But the 200 mile lube routine and resulting tar baby rear ends has lead many of us dandies astray and into the squeaky clean o-ring world where life isn't quite as mechanically supreme, but with more time riding and less time devoted to the dubious enjoyment of lubing and cleaning.
Actually, it seems logical that WD40 would be unsuitable as a lubricant in most any situation calling for film shear strength (such as a drive chain, for instance, or crank case for that matter) -- reference the ball bearing and race in the article --
and represent a particularly poor choice for a non-o-ring chain. But with the o-ring chain being supposedly already internally pre-lubed for life (if you can buy into that) the lubrication aspect is already taken care of with the rubber o-rings serving as guardians of the internal lube against the ravages of the outside world (i.e., water, sand, grit, etc.). So it would indeed become important to avoid damaging the o-rings with any harmful substance such as petroleum products, WD40, or otherwise. Perhaps transmission fluid is "good for" the hot running rubber chain o'rings as advertized for the rubber parts in automobile transmissions -- keeping them supple, flexible and all that -- and may at least be the lesser of two evils compared to WD40. My brief spritzes with WD40 are not intended to lube ('cause already lubed for life -- right) but just as a quickie make shift rust preventive. Am going to experiment with ATF and have a little ATF vs. WD40 war on rust. Incidentally, when the o-ring chain dies, it does so suddenly and immediately requires the 200 mile lube routine which allows a dandy to eek by just long enough to install a new 0-ring chain. You know -- the "Chain of Life" -- "different strokes for . . ." and all that. Happy trails -- and happy lubing -- and happy cleaning -- and waiving to the passing 0-ringers while enjoying those chores and buying lube and extra cleaning supplies. Just kidding -- be glad to ride with you any time -- and thanks again for pointing to the really fine article.