remove and bondo tank badge brackets

Hi All
 I want to remove the tank badge brackets and fill them before paint this summer. Anyone done this to thier bike? I am going to Air Brush the KAWASAkI on during paint. I am guessing there a few spot welds, but how many?
Thanks!

saltroni wrote:

Hi All
 I want to remove the tank badge brackets and fill them before paint this summer. Anyone done this to thier bike? I am going to Air Brush the KAWASAkI on during paint. I am guessing there a few spot welds, but how many?
Thanks!

Hi, the mounting screw plate usually has a couple of small spot welds, best to use a small grinder or spot weld drill. Caution using the drill as you don’t want to puncture the tank!!!  The grinder has more control. Sometimes the plate is fairly loose and pulls off.
Clean off the area of any paint and rust and use the proper way of filling with the lead loading technique. “Bondo” body filler can crack and/or shrink and ruin your paint job.
Hope this helps,
Rich.

The tank badge mount plate sits lower than the tank surface so you can bondo over it without issue. It'll also allow to revert back should you decide to do so at some point in the future as the bondo is easy to remove with a heat gun and a wire brush. 

Warren3200gt wrote:

The tank badge mount plate sits lower than the tank surface so you can bondo over it without issue. It'll also allow to revert back should you decide to do so at some point in the future as the bondo is easy to remove with a heat gun and a wire brush. 

Hi, yes I agree that the plate can be filled over should you want to revert back to original in the future, but even doing that, the surface needs to be rust free and these plates often cover rust which cannot be removed with the plate in place. From the photo, there is a rust issue which can be seen. If you want to revert back to standard in the future and to do this job properly, the plate will still need to be removed, the area cleaned and treated to remove rust and refitted. 
A lot of money goes into the paint and you really don’t want rust to start blistering your nice new paint job.
Rich.

Ample application of convertor inhibitor and initial base coat of barrier coat and as any further corrosion requires oxygen it won't occur. 

How do you get the base coat under the mounting plate?

TexasKZ wrote:

How do you get the base coat under the mounting plate?

The convertor inhibitor is as thin as water so soaks into any existing rust turning it inert and stops further corrosion . 
Base coat of barrier coat (barcoat) stops any air getting to the treated area so no further rust can occur and also keys the primer coats. 

Thanks! As you can see, I have already hosed it down with converter. I do prefer to paint with clean metal. so the brackets gotta go. I will end up using a grinder to remove the spot welds.  I have pulled them off before on a CB750 but i also have had to weld up the holes that causes and, I dont want to do that again. LOL! 

I use a special drill to remove the dot welds. Any good car body shop can help.
I did fill my fuel tank depresion and tiny dents with tin and coated the complete tank surface also with a tin layer.
PMC Japan made the best quality in badges.

 
 
 
 
 

You could Leave the brackets and “lead” fill around and over it