New From TX

Awesome thanks!

Another question, I cant get the seat to lock. I have put WD-40 on it but the key wont turn it. Is the key to the seat different from the one that fits the ignition/tank?

Hawkeye950 wrote:

Awesome thanks!

Another question, I cant get the seat to lock. I have put WD-40 on it but the key wont turn it. Is the key to the seat different from the one that fits the ignition/tank?

No, the locks use the same key, unless someone has changed out the ignition switch before. I used to live in Lubbock, so am happy to help out a fellow Red Raider!

Hawkeye950 wrote:

Right now the Tach is not working so Ill need to figure out whats going on with it. And the head light has some cosmetic damage. Does anyone know where I can order a new bezel for it? And I also need to order mirrors for it. If anyone knows where I can order those that would be great too.

bikebandit.com

You can uncrew the tachometer cable and see if it is broken internally. New cables are relatively easy to find, Kawasaki part # 54018-1008.

Thats what it was, the cable was broken. Now the only problem is I cant get it to come out of the Tach. I unscrewed it but its stuck pretty good. Im worried that I might break something if I pull too hard.

How do you find this kind of information? I would like to look up if Part number K53020-053 will fit on my bike. Also, is there a way I can find what the exact model of the bike is? Im guessing look up the VIN number but I dont know of a place that does that for free.

GPz550D1 wrote:

The headlight bezel is still available from Kawasaki, part number 23006-038. Or you could find a new or used one on Ebay. According to Kawasaki.com it fits the following models.

H1-D (1973)
H1-E (1974)
H1-F (1975)
KH500-A8 (1976)
KZ1000-A1 (KZ1000) (1977)
KZ1000-A2 (KZ1000) (1978)
KZ1000-A2A (KZ1000) (1978)
KZ1000-A3 (KZ1000) (1979)
KZ1000-A3A (KZ1000) (1979)
KZ1000-A4 (KZ1000) (1980)
KZ1000-B1 (KZ1000 LTD) (1977)
KZ1000-B2 (KZ1000 LTD) (1978)
KZ1000-B3 (KZ1000 LTD) (1979)
KZ1000-B4 (LTD) (1980)
KZ1000-C1 (Police 1000) (1978)
KZ1000-C1A (Police 1000) (1978)
KZ1000-C2 (Police 1000) (1979)
KZ1000-C3 (Police 1000) (1980)
KZ1000-E1 (Shaft) (1979)
KZ1000-E2 (Shaft) (1980)
KZ1000-G1 (Classic) (1980)
KZ1000-J1 (1981)
KZ1000-J2 (1982)
KZ1000-J3 (1983)
KZ1000-K1 (LTD) (1981)
KZ1000-K2 (LTD) (1982)
KZ1000-M1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ1000-M2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ1100-A1 (Shaft) (1981)
KZ1100-A2 (Shaft) (1982)
KZ550-A1 (1980)
KZ550-A2 (1981)
KZ550-A3 (1982)
KZ550-A4 (1983)
KZ550-C1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ550-C2 (LTD) (1981)
KZ550-C3 (LTD) (1982)
KZ550-C4 (LTD) (1983)
KZ650-B1 (1977)
KZ650-B2 (1978)
KZ650-B2A (1978)
KZ650-B3 (1979)
KZ650-C1 (Custom) (1977)
KZ650-C2 (Custom) (1978)
KZ650-C3 (Custom) (1979)
KZ650-D1 (SR) (1978)
KZ650-D1A (SR) (1978)
KZ650-D2 (SR) (1979)
KZ650-E1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ650-F1 (1980)
KZ650-H1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ650-H2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ650-H3 (CSR) (1983)
KZ750-B1 (1976)
KZ750-B2 (1977)
KZ750-B3 (1978)
KZ750-B4 (1979)
KZ750-E1 (1980)
KZ750-E2 (1981)
KZ750-E3 (1982)
KZ750-G1 (LTD II) (1980)
KZ750-H1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ750-H2 (LTD) (1981)
KZ750-H3 (LTD) (1982)
KZ750-M1 (CSR Twin) (1982)
KZ900-A4 (1976)
KZ900-A5 (1977)
KZ900-B1 (LTD) (1976)
Z1 (Z1) (1973)
Z1-A (Z1) (1974)
Z1-B (Z1) (1975)

Lots of good info on kawasaki.com, including parts diagrams, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc.

Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.

Click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

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Including information about bike year and model, such as 1982 KZ550-C3 LTD, in your signature will automatically appear in posted messages.
When done, the signature information appears in all posts, past and future. And may be changed as often as desired.

Here's how to do it:
Click here > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=8&id=382004#382317

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For parts and fast service, would suggest Z1 Enterprizes.
Click > www.z1enterprises.com/

Good Fortune!

Wow Thanks for that Patton! I really cant thank you guys enough for all your help. We flushed the fuel tank today and got all the gunk out. Ran some Seafoam and Chemtool through it and its running wayyyy better than it did yesterday. Now I just have to see if it starts up in the morning without any starter fluid. If it does, then the only think left to fix is the Tach and to make sure the low fuel warning light works. As for the later, I cant even find where that light is on the instruments. Again thank you all for your help!

For a bike with this many years, I'd suggest replacing the many and various instrument bulbs. While at the auto parts store, get some AGX fuses for your fuse holder. You'll probably need 10,and 20 amp fuses.

Vibration can cause these fuses to fail or become intermittent.

Your front running lights/turn signals and rear brake light/stop lights are 1157 bulbs(dual filiment).

Rear turn signals are 1156(single filiment).

Instrument bulbs can be either 1168 or 1194 bulbs.

Hawkeye950 wrote:

You can uncrew the tachometer cable and see if it is broken internally. New cables are relatively easy to find, Kawasaki part # 54018-1008.

Thats what it was, the cable was broken. Now the only problem is I cant get it to come out of the Tach. I unscrewed it but its stuck pretty good. Im worried that I might break something if I pull too hard.

You may have to unscrew the cable from the engine and slide the inner cable out from that end.

GPz550D1 wrote:

Hawkeye950 wrote:

You can uncrew the tachometer cable and see if it is broken internally. New cables are relatively easy to find, Kawasaki part # 54018-1008.

Thats what it was, the cable was broken. Now the only problem is I cant get it to come out of the Tach. I unscrewed it but its stuck pretty good. Im worried that I might break something if I pull too hard.

You may have to unscrew the cable from the engine and slide the inner cable out from that end.

Well the way it broke I cant get it out that way. I have to take the entire cable off. The nut unscrews from the tachometer but its stuck. I guess I need to order the new one and look at it and see how it attaches inside. I would think that it just pushes in. It came off of the engine real easy.

Once you get the new cable, you will see how the inner cable fits into the tachometer and engine. Sometimes you have to rotate the inner cable a little bit to get it to mesh properly.