New to the forum with an old KZ

Hello!

My name's Kari, from Ohio. I have an old 82' KZ 1000 CSR. It was my first bike I purchased 16 years ago. Probably not my wisest choice of bike to learn on. In fact, I didn't ride it much at all because I simply didn't have any rider friends to learn from, and it was kinda a big bike for me. About 7 years ago it began seeping some oil and so I parked it.
Since then, I gotten an FZ6 and R6 and ride all the time and fairly competent in my abilities.
In the meantime, my poor KZ sat and became very neglected. It's still shy of 10,000 miles.
This is a project I've put off for far too long. I want to restore this bike back up in running in great condition.
I have some mechanical aptitude, but certainly have so much to learn. I have a Clymer manual, so hopefully with that and learning from you guys, I can accomplish this.
Currently, I can get the KZ to run, but only while choked. I've pulled of the tank, drained the old fuel added fresh fuel and some seafoam, but that didn't really help. My next step is pulling the carbs and learning how to properly clean those.
Thank you and look forward to chatting/learning!

Definitely sounds like the pilot circuit is obstructed in some of the carbs. A good, thorough cleaning will fix that. Search on carb cleaning and there is lots of good information.
As far as manuals, Factory Service Manual is best, Haynes is OK and Clymer is a distant third.
Good luck and Welcome!

Nice bike
Steve

Here's the factory manual

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf

TexasKZ wrote: Here's the factory manual

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/K...Service%20Manual.pdf

Thank you so much!

Welcome Kari, I had an 81 Kz1000M1 (CSR) a few years ago. At 10K miles, your engine is a pretty low mile survivor, and is nowhere near worn out. Mine was a real screamer, the same that my present daily rider kz is. My CSR had sat so long in the same spot, that I had to loosen up the calipers to get it to roll onto my trailer. Check out the rust stains on the concrete. :S


With the exception of the exhaust header and the pod filters, it looks to be all stock. The pods can cause problems. These vacuum carbs are designed to work in unison with the air box.
You will find that stagnant gas turns into a varnish sludge in the fuel system, and plugs up the passages / jets . There is a host of different chemicals that will cut it. I have probably used them all at one time or another. Lacquer thinner will help with varnish. Try to avoid the corrosive acidic chemicals The carbs are not hard to clean. There are a lot of little parts to clean out. Also note that I went to great lengths to locate a stock air box for both of my Kz's. They both rev out to red line, with no spitting and sputtering. All yours needs is a fuel system cleaning and a podectomy. lol :whistle:


If left sitting in the elements, there are other things that deteriorate in a different manner.

Thanks for the info!
From what my ex told me about the bike, is that it was a Rick Case edition. All I know about that, is that Rick Case had/has a dealership where they would make some mods prior to selling. In my bike's case, the carbs are different than stock, as well as the exhaust (from what I'm told).
As for the pods, years ago my boyfriend of the time pulled the carbs off to clean. It was such a pain in ass to get the air box off (and he said the plastic of the box degraded and would likely break on installation), that he thought it'd be best to put pods on.
Fortunately, I still do have the original air box.

I agree that the air box is difficult to install, and for people with marginal technical skills, nearly impossible. I unbolt my battery box, and move everything to the rear, then using a bungee cord, strap my box back against the frame down tubes, and it is STILL a pita to install. I also hook up my throttle cable before I slide my carb bank back in between the air box and carb holders. The service manual has a procedure that is somewhat helpful, but no matter what it says, it is still a certain (read PITA) amount of work to assemble anything made, including OEM air boxes. Of course any plastic part will break if it is forced. My rubber boots are original, and still pliable and soft. You have to turn / angle the carb bank to slide it in between the boots and the carb holders.



2 weeks ago:



That air box looks good. Clean it up piece by piece, and get a better look at the individual parts. I was once quoted $150.00 for a used air box. Needless to say, I did not buy it. I also still have 2 spare air boxes, less the carb boots.

KZ Kari wrote: Thanks for the info!
From what my ex told me about the bike, is that it was a Rick Case edition. All I know about that, is that Rick Case had/has a dealership where they would make some mods prior to selling. In my bike's case, the carbs are different than stock, as well as the exhaust (from what I'm told).

The carbs look to be stock, they were most likely re-jetted to match the header, therefore no longer "stock". they probably have the "racing" #125 main jets installed to make up for the added air flow of the header. Just a WAG (wild A-- guess). Stock jets for that bike are #122.5.

Again, thank you so much for the pics and info. I did get the carbs off earlier this. I only took the top parts off (float chamber?) where the needles are. I didn't want to take the bowls off because I realized there are paper gaskets that would have to be replaced for certain if I did.
My current goal is to just the bike so it can run, and ride it to my buddy's house, as he's interested in helping/learning (and I could use it!)
Anywho, I was unsuccessful, so I'm going to go ahead and buy a rebuild kit and fully get it cleaned, rebuilt and in great shape. I think that's important especially if I decide to try and get this air box back on.
If you don't mind, just one quick question. You said your KZ 1000 was an M1. I vaguely remember getting parts for this bike, and being asked if it's an M or J model. What's the difference, and how do I know which mine is? My ex always told me that if I'm getting parts, just say it's an LTD. Is that accurate?
Side note: I've learned that the mod to the carburetors are likely not that it's re-jetted, but that dialjets were installed.

I have most certainly never replaced any gaskets other than O-rings on my bike. The bowl gaskets are certainly reusable, if care is taken with the bowl removal.
It's not a J model, it's the M2 or K2 if it's a 1982. The service manual shows the different models. Download it from the KzR website.. If you managed to remove the carbs yourself, you are also capable of cleaning everything up yourself too. Invite him over and let him watch you fix it. You should look it up and do a little research on the carbs first. there isn't much on the top. All of the jets are in the float bowl. If you don't take an organized approach to cleaning these carbs, you will have it all out of whack. The tank probably needs cleaning too, and the petcock is probably contaminated too. It all works as a system (fuel system) , and it all needs to work properly.



In this case, google is your friend. Not much they want to censor in a mikuni BS34 carb.

Take it to a buddy to learn on? .. Um.. yaok. Be sure to furnish lots of alcohol too. <kididng!> Some people think that if you drink enough alcohol when doing something they have no clues about, getting drunk will miraculously turn them into a mechanic. A sure fire recipe for a disaster.

I had to google dialjet, and now that I know what that is, I can see the tubes coming from the bowl drain screws. I have absolutely no idea about these things. One more thing to clean and make sure it's working properly. :S

Look at the frame sticker on the neck. It should have the model plainly listed, but I am pretty sure it's a Kz1000-M2. (82 CSR) TexasKz posted a link to the kawasaki service manual. The 7th and 8th digit in the VIN # is the model on my 81 (K1) Mine is: JKAKZCK18BA00XXXX. Note the 7th and 8th digit.

Also, put the air box back on. The CV carbs with the vacuum slides and diaphragm are designed to use the air box. There are a lot of design characteristics in this system. It's not just an air cleaner, but instead part of the overall carburetor system. Buy a new paper filter (OEM) and put that stuff back on. You can thank me later. :whistle: