Dutch 1977 Z1000 Build

Those look like cross over pipes (tuned exhaust) that hasn't been installed properly. 1/4, 2/3 go together one set on each side. I'd get rid of those side drafts and go with some Jardine straight through slip on's. I miss mine.
Steve

floivanus wrote:

GPzMOD750 wrote: Nice, Should be fun to watch.

BTW the reason the "K" was dropped from the designation in the Euro and some Brit Commonwealth markets was because KZ was one of the abbreviations the Nazis used for concentration camps (German: Konzentrationslager, KZ or KL).

Didn't stop honda from releasing the goldwing 1000 in the UK with the model designation of KZ.

Keep up the good work, looks good

Those insensitive bastards! :evil:

That's the story I've always heard.....

It might have been because Honda had copyrighted that designation in certain markets. Strange things happen in the business world.

It seems Honda had a big CBR1100XX that they called the Super Blackbird. It was the fastest production bike for a short time, took over from the ZX-11 then beat by the Hyabusa. I remember reading that Honda had to pay either Kawasaki or Suzuki for the name since they already had copyrighted Blackbird for the motorcycle market.

GredZ,
The old seat did not came with the bike.
This one did.



Steve,
Same with the old exhaust, too rusty and ugly so I left them.
Looking for headers from Delcevik and look what the mailman brought yesterday









I know it is probably Chinese crap but it looks good and if it last for a year I am happy.
Gives me some time to look for a Yoshimura or GP wrecks muffler.

Oké fellow bikers, I need some advice....
The Ohlins are a little longer than I hoped for and will be placed with an angle forward like all modern bikes.
This gives me 2 problems.
The first is chain clearance with the frame.



This will be solved by cutting of the bottom bracket and welding it further backwards.

The other "problem" is..
How far can you tilt the frame up from the rear before you get stability problems, and what is the best angle?
I have been searching this forum and other places but cannot find a simple answer.
The only place I can measure is the bottom of the frame and the straight part under the fuel tank.
Thanks
Eric

a round machined plastic(delrin)bushing could be machined to slide over the swingarm pivot tube for the chain to ride on.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: a round machined plastic(delrin)bushing could be machined to slide over the swingarm pivot tube for the chain to ride on.

leon

Wiers wrote: How far can you tilt the frame up from the rear before you get stability problems, and what is the best angle?

There isn't a "best angle" per se. I would calculate your trail and see where you are at. You can have several degrees more of rake because your new triple trees have a lot less fork offset than the stock trees. Most super-bikes rarely go below 24 degrees of rake though. If you have the means/money I might suggest bracing your frame. the stiffer forks and increased rake angle put much more stress on the frame and these old girls were flexible to start with.

here is a trail calculator i like.
rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html

Nice work so far!

Thanks Leon and Doctorot,

First I have to look how much clearance I will have.
I have seen similar solutions and will surely use it.
Looks like a rollerblade wheel :laugh: I know some use a wheel as a chain tensioner.

If you used a larger counter-sprocket and sprocket set could you get the clearance you need? Ed

DoctoRot wrote:

Wiers wrote: How far can you tilt the frame up from the rear before you get stability problems, and what is the best angle?

There isn't a "best angle" per se. I would calculate your trail and see where you are at. You can have several degrees more of rake because your new triple trees have a lot less fork offset than the stock trees. Most super-bikes rarely go below 24 degrees of rake though. If you have the means/money I might suggest bracing your frame. the stiffer forks and increased rake angle put much more stress on the frame and these old girls were flexible to start with.

here is a trail calculator i like.
rbracing-rsr.com/rakeandtrail.html

Nice work so far!

I have seen this page of rake calculation but did not know how to use it.
But after reading and learning from this forum I will have a go at it.

For sure I will brace my frame and started with preparations already.



Ready for engine removal.
Then bracing and welding the frame, and cleaning and spraying the engine.

650ed wrote: If you used a larger counter-sprocket and sprocket set could you get the clearance you need? Ed

Hi Ed,
I already have a 19 tooth front and 40tooth rear.
It will be alright once I know at what position the shocks will be mounted.
Eric

I found this at the sanctuary site.





Might be a good starting point.
If it works for them it than it will be okay for me