Bad IC Ignitor?

You really want to keep it within 0.5v of the battery voltage.

The pickup may be riveted.. i can't remember...
You may try jb weld...and clamp it for 24 hours.
Just be careful as the wires inside the pickup are super thin so you don't want to pull too hard on the wires going into the pickup.

It doesn't look riveted... probably pressed on... but you're going to have to bond it to the plate somehow to make sure the rotor is aligned with the metal protrusion on the pickup

Could you also take a straight in photo of the pickup/ rotor.

Your pickup should look like this from straight on.
photo: farrarski
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/609635-pickup-coil-gap

 

SPARK!! Both sides. 

The lower bracket bolt was stripped so it took some effort to get the plate off. I used a clamp to squeeze it back, but it is not flush. Seal the crack with silicone?

Thinking of removing rotor and giving it a bath in Evaporust, then make sure everything is clean and lubed. 

Hopefully I can get her started after work tomorrow. 

Thanks again!

The second picture should be the before…

 

You should also clean the weights and springs below the rotor.
Just be careful about the rubber tips on the weights

Those should move freely when the rotor is rotated. The pickup needs to be flush with the plate. silicone may not have the holding power but you could try it.
This is what that joint should look like.

photo:jssecenas55
www.kzrider.com/forum/10-new-members/620...l-pulsing-coil-issue

 


the rubber tips on the weights
photo: patton
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/46182...-mechanical-advancer

 

 

I got her running but she still stumbles and back fires. I tried adjusting the pilot screws but not entirely sure what I am after. Need to do some research. 

Stumble and slow to rev, but not all the time. 

I will take the rotor off and give it a good clean and lube, then try the carb sync again. 

Can’t thank you enough for helping diagnose!

Good Job!
Keep at it.
Check the timing with a timing light as you increase the revs.
 

Good evening.

No longer electrical (maybe) but rather than start a new topic I thought I would keep this thread going...

The bike was idling pretty smooth yesterday, a bit of a stumble with throttle.  I put the tank on to go for a ride and the oil light would not turn off.

I tested the oil pressure switch with my multimeter per the manual.  No ignition and I get 0 ohms.  With the bike running I get OL, which I believe is infinity?  So that tells me the switch is ok.  I also tested continuity between the black wire to the connector that connects with the tach unit.

So off to Harbor Freight for the cheapo oil pressure tester.  I need the 10mm x 1 thread adapter which the kit has, but it does not really fit into the hole.  Measuring with my calipers the HF adapter is slightly larger than the switch.  So rather than crank it down I only screwed it in a turn or two.  I ended up getting a pretty steady 40 psi at idle.  Intitially giving it the gas it jumps up to 60.  I have a video that shows it, and in the video there is some "coughing", mechanical maybe, and the psi does not increase.  I will see if I can post it.

Based on threads I thought maybe cleaning the oil screen.  There was some junk, and some metal, but nothing major like it was blocked.  Cleaned and reinstalled everything and no change,  I did not do another pressure test but the light stays on.

Finally, I pulled the switch, bent a big paperclip and found the internal switch.  Pushing the internal switch with the ignition on, but not running, and the light stays on.  

So is it a bad switch after all?

I do not want to have to pull the cases to replace the oil pump.  That looks way beyond my pay grade.

Thank you.

www.youtube.com/shorts/lHC3KFemyJM

Link to YouTube Short with the mechanical cough.

THanks!

Yeah, it seems like you have a bad switch. You pretty much eliminated all of the other causes.

I was impatient years ago and grabbed a switch from Autozone. I just had to find the thread size and the pressure point for the switch. The top terminal usually can be removed from your old switch to put on the new one.

 

Okay, so I replaced the switch with the one you referenced but the light remains on.

Also, I managed to WAY overfill the oil after the pulling the screen.  I ended up sucking enough oil out to get the window at 3/4 after letting the bike idle for a few minutes.  Not sure how much additional damage I did by running it with too much oil.  After getting the excess out the bike would idle fine, but die / major stumble with just a little gas,  Obviously the new plugs were fouled so after swapping them for fresh one the bike seems to run fine.  Nice idle and giving it a little gas it revs right up.  It is a little slow to return to normal revs which leads me to believe the pilot screws might need to be backed off a little?

I am going to try to manually activate the new switch to see if there is another issue, but not sure what else to check.  I am hesitant to run the bike too much in case there is an issue.

On a positive note I was able to redesign the airbox cover to simplify and also allow better airflow through the filter element.

As always, thank you!



 

Disconnect the lead from the pressure switch.

Hook up a multimeter
one probe to ground
and the other probe to the center terminal on the switch.

Set the meter to ohms.

Your multimeter will be your oil pressure light.

Zero ohms or close will indicate low pressure.
OL will indicate ok oil pressure.

Start the bike and see how the meter reacts
 

I set up a fan and let the bike warm up and idle for a bit.  I tested the switch per your instructions and got 0.0 stopped and OL when running.

I noticed the oil window fills while running, then empties when it is shut off.  Hopefully that means the oil is dumping where it needs to be while running and then draining to the lower levels when it stops?  No idea if that is correct or not.  The window fills to 3/4 at rest and with the bike level.

I keep getting a click, sometimes worse, like something is not meshing correctly.  I occasionally get a pretty major chunk sound from the starter motor.  The weather has been absolute crap the past three days so I cannot take it for a quick spin.  

I tried to capture the sounds in the video below, if that helps with diagnosis.  You can hear it at the start of the video and again after I rev the engine.

Sorry to keep asking questions but not sure if it is safe to ride or not.

Thank you.


youtube.com/shorts/NydWBvBHkI4?feature=share

Your switch and oil pressure seem fine if the bike ran with OL on the meter.
0.0 ohms would indicate low oil pressure.

If your light continues to light when connected to the switch when the bike is running, I would investigate the circuit from the switch to the light.

You may have to put some slack in the oil switch wire. Possibly remove the L terminal to the switch and mount it upside down. Bend it out a bit so it doesn't touch the switch body.

My KZ440 belt has always made the same hiccup when idling. Not sure what it is. Possible misfire is my guess. Mine is fine once I start riding.

The oil will wash over the oil level window when running. It it is getting churned by the primary chain. The only thing this indicated is that your primary chain is turning behind that cover.