1981 GPz1100 B1 Rstomod / ELR "Tribute"

"Nice work on the 3D printing, those look quality. I have an B1 and was going to fit a b2 cowl and clocks next year, maybe ill come knocking for copies of what you made to make you a few dollars."

Me too!   Same boat, need the parts. 

Also, great source for parts is webike.japan.net, they have everything you need for ELR Replica's.   Even have S1 replica parts.   I just got a chain roller from AC Sanctuary and some other bits and pieces.  Only took like three weeks to get it.

577Nitro

 

No problem 577Nitro.

However, shipping is my concern.
The postal system here is un-"reliable", to use a kind word to describe it.
So, you will need to use a global courier service.

H.

Went for a 50 mile ride yesterday to visit a buddy.Somewhere the exhaust baffle decided to depart...You would be right to question why I did'nt notice it at the time... Dunno...It was way too loud to begin with, and even set off the neighbour's car alarm,  early one fine morning!

This morning I made a replacement: 

 



















Sounds cool too!

Secured with TWO screws this time!
 

Nice work Howard, 3D printing and fabrication! Too much talent 

The decal set arrived on Friday... so painting is up next...

She's going Green...  but NOT in the "politically correct" sense !

 Before I paint the tank, I will need to delete, and cover, the existing dual fuel outlets, and tig-weld in a suitable mounting plate
 (with two M6 blind threaded inserts) for a standard pet-cock. 
The new position for the pet-cock, on the left hand side, (in order to clear the BS34 CV carbs) is somewhat forward of the existing fuel outlets, so no issue there.

 Gasoline is highly explosive in vapour form, so I'll take precaution by filling the tank with water first, then apply WD40 and dry in the sun.

I thought to post one final "before painting" picture of the machine...

 

H.
 

Update:

Well, winter having arrived early, with sub-zero night-time temperatures, prohibits painting for a while...

The air-box finally arrived from Ebay, (after 4 months!) as well as the rubber boots, so I set about removing the pod filters and installing the air-box. 
It arrived without the rubber "snorkel" on the filter element cap, so, I designed one to replicate what I saw in a few on-line pictures of the genuine Kawasaki item.

I 3D printed it using a "rubbery" material called "TPE" and I'm quite satisfied with the result.



The 1000J air-box fits in... but only just... 
No suitable mounting points are provided on the GPz frame.
However, it is such a snug fit, and is pretty much firmly held in place by the battery box and it's bracket!
No extra brackets required!
I can't imagine how one would get it, and the carbs, in there when the rubbers are a little harder from age, without first removing the battery and its mounting brackets !
 




H. 

Ok, as I mentioned in my opening post, when I got the bike, the jetting seemed "off" as the engine was running rough below 4000rpm.
It also had difficulty starting (more on that....) , and had poor idle, but had good power above 7000.
I hoped that things would improve with the air-box and air filter, being as Mamma Kawa originally intended.
Not so! Still as rough as a badgers bum...So, off with the valve cover.

Look what I found: Grrrrrrrrrr!   

Exhaust cam timing was 1 tooth retarded>



AND the intake cam timing was ALSO retarded one tooth!



I guess my assessment of the shop that performed the work on the engine (before I bought the bike) is confirmed!
Philistines!

To remedy this, I put the crank on TDC Cyl. 1, and made marks on the chain, and then marked a tooth on each sprocket that SHOULD occupy that position to correct the timing so that the arrows on each sprocket are parallel to the head's cam cover mating surface...

I then loosened the cam caps (and of the 16 bolts, only 2 were sufficiently torqued, 3 of which were only FINGER TIGHT) ... and carefully moved the chain so that the marks I had made lined up with the marked teeth. Simple.
Inspected the cam journals and bearing shells... all pristine in condition.

This is the result of my timing....







I checked the clearances: One exhaust valve was 0.15mm, the other 3 were at 0.17mm.
All 4 intake valves were spot on mid spec, at 0.075mm - Miraculously!
So, the head can stay on, for now! (ordered a full gasket set for later.....)
Both cams have 3 grooves, so the cams are correct! 
( Part# 12044-1031 - GPz's and R's use the same cams)

H.

Good news on finding the timing issue but excuse the english but that exhaust baffle is pure sexy. Well earned.

The starter clutch also exhibited problems: frequently "slipping", with accompanying "rattling" sounds...

I had ordered a new, complete, sprag-clutch, 4 months prior...



I opened up the alternator cover to see...

A buddy kindly made a rotor "puller" for me, from an M18x1.5mm bolt, that was drilled and tapped M14x1.5 internally.
Application of that "home-made" tool was very satisfying... but what I found was shocking! 



TWO of the three 8mm cap bolts that hold the starter clutch onto the rotor were broken off, and the remaining bolt was loose!
 I managed to drill out the remainder of the broken bolts using a 3.5mm drill bit and an "easy-out" tool.
(Cleaning out all the metal shavings was a pain, sticking to the magnets...)



I mounted the new starter clutch with 3 new cap-bolts and Loc-tite!

After closing it all up again, I switched on the ignition and hit the starter button...

She fired up immediately, and after 10 seconds of rough, she settled down to the sweetest idle...
I suited up for a test...

WOW hardly describes the difference!
Bottom-end "grunt" brings a huge smile to my face, every time I twist the right-hand grip... and she pulls cleanly to 9000!

H.
 

wrote:

"...but that exhaust baffle is pure sexy. Well earned."

Thank-you!

After a 30 mile ride at free-way speed.... 

 

It's an unfortunate fact that many "professionals" these days have no pride in the work they do and are only focused on the money, remember the old adage "if you want the job done right, do it yourself" because you care. 
PS: I appreciate sometimes you have no choice but to out source some jobs  

Lawson replica's have white handle-bar ends, so I wanted to reproduce this on my build.

From a couple of photos I saw on the net, I designed a copy... and 3D printed them using white, High Impact, polystyrene.
I wondered how to make a decent hole in the ends of the new replica grips that I found on EBay...
Use heat, I thought... 

I heated up a piece of 20mm aluminium tube, using my butane torch, and carefully applied it to the ends of the new grips...
Worked perfectly!







These bar-ends obviously make it faster. Hahahahaha.

And so, a couple more "to-do" items have been ticked off my slowly reducing list of things to do...

Peace!

H.