1981 GPz1100 B1 Rstomod / ELR "Tribute"

Red neck = Philistine, in my vernacular. 

 

wrote:

A popular mod to get more clutch pressure is to shim an extra washer under the clutch springs to get more preload.

The purpose of the mod was to increase surface friction area without increasing spring pressure, on a stock motor you could "in theory" reduce spring pressure to make the lever lighter to operate 

wrote:

Beautiful work! Plus welding while wearing shorts! 

TIG welding doesn't throw sparks, only light rays.  If he was MIG welding with shorts, well, that would be just plain dumb!  You only need to worry about "sunburn" and fumes with TIG.

While we're talking about tig welding....
The previous owner had fit a hideous gear lever, of unknown origin. The linkage ball joints and also the pivot bush were badly worn, exhibiting a LOT of "slop"...
Horrible!



 



I saw a few NOS levers advertised on Ebay, for ridiculous money... Not gonna happen! 
However, I was able to use the advertising pictures to design a replica:

 

Having access to a laser cutter at work, and a lathe at home made this a breeze!











The ball joint was salvaged from a gas strut, having an M8 external thread on the ball, and an M6 internal thread in the "socket". Screwed right onto the existing linkage!
"I was well pleased with that", quoting Allen Millyard once again.

H.

 

Another piece of quality fabrication Howard, very nice welding by the way

A few weeks back I noticed that the battery voltage was often below 12volts (checked using the built-in voltmeter in the B2 clocks) and sometimes dropped below 11v when the headlight was on "high beam".

Did all the usual checking for bad connection, bad earth  etc. and came to the conclusion that the alternator was only delivering about 9 volts at 4000rpm.

A while back, while replacing the starter clutch, I recalled that the flywheel / rotor magnets had been "repaired"... cracked / broken, probably by someone striking the flywheel while trying to remove it at some stage. The pieces were adequately  glued back but I thought that the reduced magnetism was the cause of the low output.

I found a replacement rotor, after a lot of searching, and set about replacing it...

Upon opening the cover, I immediately saw the cause:
The stator winding insulation was "blackened" and "crumbled" to bits while I was removing it.

 

I could not find a suitable  replacement stator at any of my local spares outlets.
Ebay to the rescue: so I pulled the trigger on a repro. unit, including a voltage regulator and a complete ignition pick-up for $75, half what I was quoted to have it re-wound!
But, delivery is 6-8 weeks away. Uhggg!
 
I thought "while waiting delivery, why not try rewinding it myself?"
I had some enameled copper wire on hand.
I carefully counted the number of turns while "disassembling" the toasted unit: 
3 phases, with 6 segments per phase, 26 turns on each segment, liberally coated in epoxy resin.

Here is the result of an evenings work:
 

I installed it in the cover.
 

I fit the replacement rotor, and after making a new gasket, I buttoned it up...

It works! (to my surprise) the regulator now delivers 13.8v at 4000. Sweet, I can ride again! 
I will however fit the Ebay item when it arrives.

H.

Rewiring the stator is brilliant. I’ve never hear of anyone not a pro doing it. 
You paralleled the wire because of smaller gauge?

Fine work Howard, I would keep the replacement as a pair given the standard of your workmansip

blipco wrote:

Rewiring the stator is brilliant. I’ve never hear of anyone not a pro doing it. 
You paralleled the wire because of smaller gauge?

Yes, the original wire dia. is 0.9mm and the wire I had was 0.7mm
 

Nice work 
I vote it stays in 
DD

howardhb wrote:

blipco wrote:

Rewiring the stator is brilliant. I’ve never hear of anyone not a pro doing it. 
You paralleled the wire because of smaller gauge?

Yes, the original wire dia. is 0.9mm and the wire I had was 0.7mm

___>>> Your rewound one will run a little cooler then. You might be on to something.

 

Ok...so I was on an inter-town motorway, 20 miles into a 100 mile round-trip, early Saturday morning, to a race circuit (to watch some "local" superbike racing) when the engine started to hessitate and misfire...
I immediately pulled to the side and coasted to a stop, under an overpass. The engine seemed to be running on only 2 cylinders.
Fortunately, I had thrown the necessary tools into my back-pack, so I could pull cylinder 1 and 4 spark-plugs... OIL FOULED!
I pulled 2 and 3... fine... ??? (Not fun working on a fully heated engine, I'll have you know!)
I cleaned the plugs as best I could and installed them. Hit the starter button and she fired right up.
I decided to turn arround and head for home...

 I set off happily, but after about 10 miles, the same symptoms appeared... What to do?
I decided to just keep riding, at 30 miles per hour, using as little throttle as possible.
All I could think about was all that unburnt fuel in the cylinders that was diluting the lubrication of the cylinder walls...
I made it home... leaving a definate pucker mark on the seat!
( That trip had, what I now refer to as, "a sphincter factor of 9... out of 9 !!! " )

I had previously measured compression, and all 4 cylinders were 95 to 100psi...but the engine ran fine...
A new test showed figures of just below 80 for 1 and 4, with 2 and 3 still up at 100psi.

Ok, so the top-end had to be re-built, so, "off with her head"

I pulled the head to see...

What follows is the process of refreshing the top end.

Stand-by...