Piston Hole Kz1000LTD 1982

Will check this. Thank you Wookie. I think the horn is unrelated, just a coincidence.

The pattern of miss when hot is not infrequent in old coils, so I´ll check cables as you propose, and then probably replace the coils with newer ones. 

The knocking noise is definitely coming from the alternator area. I checked with the old "screwdriver to ear" trick, and is distinctive. I did install the rubber dumper on assembly, but there is a noise there. A lot more intense, obviously, when it goes down to 2 cyls. 

 

Had tach needle fluctuations simply due to a yellow/black ground wire having poor contact with the frame behind the left ignition coil.

🧐

photos.app.goo.gl/L37KPqZ4ThRnmDGf9

Daveo, that video you have in that link sounds awesome... mean machine!

Cheers.

C.

 

Must be because my old Samsung J3 cell phone tech is outdated, because the only way my keyboard pulls up is to post an image...hence another above.

After years running over-rich jetted carbs, I decided to try lean and see what would happen.
Each step down produced a noticeable improvement until I depleted my pilot jet stash.
Currently with crisp mid-50's average temps 15 pilots are installed.  The occasional pop in the 60's temps has ceased.
Next would be 12.5's, but...
Seems lean ideally, but that may be due to oil consumption.

15 pilots, 120 mains, .08 air jets, needle clips in 3rd. slot, and loving it!

photos.app.goo.gl/oZ7TnK1kfEYKTp6GA
 

Could not take a oook into the bike in all week, and of course; the first thing I looked into was the coils, just to find out that the polarity was reversed in both coils.

Red cable was plugged to the “-“. 

I have now plugged them correctly but have not started the bike yet.

could my miseries be caused by this stupid mistake of mine?

cartal wrote:

Could not take a oook into the bike in all week, and of course; the first thing I looked into was the coils, just to find out that the polarity was reversed in both coils.

Red cable was plugged to the “-“. 

I have now plugged them correctly but have not started the bike yet.

could my miseries be caused by this stupid mistake of mine?

Sorry Carlos, they aren't normally "polarity sensitive" (single outlet coils often are) so unlikely to solve your problem

They do have a plus and minus sign, so I was really hopeful 

will do some testing

I would suggest swopping the coils as I suggested earlier, if it's a bad coil the other two cylinders will miss-fire but the tacho should work. If that isn't the case it's like either a pick-up or the igniter breaking down when hot (could also be a corroded connector in the igniter plugs)

[justify]Warmed up bike and swapped coils when it started acting up. No change, still same behaviour, so coils likely not to blame.

will take a look this afternoon at the other proposed solutions 

funny how simptoms are both that 2 cyls go out, as well as the tach, but also as it warms up (not a lot, I use a fan in front of the engine), revs fall down slowly. For the first 10 minutes, engine behaves beautifully 

[/justify]

cartal wrote:

[justify]Warmed up bike and swapped coils when it started acting up. No change, still same behaviour, so coils likely not to blame.

will take a look this afternoon at the other proposed solutions 

funny how simptoms are both that 2 cyls go out, as well as the tach, but also as it warms up (not a lot, I use a fan in front of the engine), revs fall down slowly. For the first 10 minutes, engine behaves beautifully [/justify]

With wires switched between coils, does the issue move to the other pair of cylinders?
If so, could the problem be associated with a pickup in the pulse housing?

Swapping coils did not reproduce the problem on the other 2 cylinders, but the tacho would not work either.

i went through the manual tests for the igniter 4 pin connector and could only reproduce some testing, marked with green checks in the picture. Could not get any results from the male connector, only the female. By the by, the connector is well fried… and happened in the past.

Moved On to the pulse generators, and found that one cable has a large section exposed. When checking this section with ground I don’t get and infinite value (assume 1), but rather 0,0001; which according to the manual is a short. I don’t think the blue cable should have exposed section; but don’t know if it will have any ill effects.

In the past I had a similar problem with some vf1000r pulse generators. Would be fine when testing but would short on a hot environment.

What do you guys think? How difficult are the pulse generators to get?

Looks like a lucky guess on my part - to be honest the pick-ups will be expensive if available and 40 years old if "used" (my igniter and pick-ups aren't in great condition) my intention was to fit one of the "Chinese" Dyna-S copys for £50 on Ebay which replaces the pick-ups and the igniter (I have now sourced all the parts to convert to GPZ1100 ignition with electronic advance so am going that way)