Piston Hole Kz1000LTD 1982

The big gear (starter gear) should have light resistance  - if it's too loose the rubber damper that sits behind it is available in different thickness's (I think there are three sizes) if you are taking it apart again it might be worth replacing the springs and rollers in the starter clutch as well

You are right Wookie. At the very least I think I should change the damper, which is the one that will allow the wheel not to spin freely.

there is a cage bearing in there as well. Should be inexpensive to replace too.

good idea about the springs 

Well… found the problem! Idiot me, either I did not torque down these bolts, or did not get thread locker in them.

anyway, they are completely loose!

 

 

Assembled all back exactly as the manual shows. I also had incorrectly placed one of the thrust washers, so all in all I am happy I took it off. It was a time bomb waiting to explode.

On assembly, the damper seems to be doing its job, as the wheel does not spin freely anymore, there is a slight resistance (as there was when originally assembled).

I just put the cover back with some loctite sealant (it had a slow leak with just the gasket), and will wait 24 hours to see how it goes. 

We should be very close to finish this thing off! (at last...)

Cheers.

C.

Good catch, leaving it would indeed have had significant consequences. 

This story will end up OK, but the journey has not been relaxed.

After reassembling everything and waiting for 24 hours for the sealant to do its job, I tried to start the engine, only to be greeted with a lod screeching noise. All off again; and one of the rotor magnets had broken. What a disaster, I thought. This is the one I bought second hand (as my original rotor had a broken magnet too). 

While I look for a permanent option, I resolved to epoxy my original broken magnet piece. Today I assembled everything, and was really fearful of starting the engine again.... (Will probably try to find a new part, rather than a used one; but I think I caused the break up, using my home made rotor support tool). 

HOWEVER... I did. And everything works exactly the way it should do. No more knocking/rumbling from the left bottom side of the engine; actually, I am really shocked to see how silent the engine is. There is almost 0 noise coming from anywhere in the engine. Very surprised!

And of course, I will now go and give it a go around, and see how it goes. 

Very excited! I will post a video afterwards. 

Here you can take a look. 

there are just a couple of things to slove:

1.- no speedometer. The needle will move and stay a little bit above zero, but neither the Speedo or the odometer work.

2.- horns have a bad connection and work randomly 

3.- exhausts leak a bit where the silencers connect. Need to seal that up

4.- will need to change the shocks. I love the looks and the feel of the shorter shocks, but cannot get the bike on the center stand and it’s too tilted with the side stand.

othherwise, ready to go get an MOT, and finally ride it a bit.

very happy! Thank you guys; especially Wookie, who has been a knowledge source, psychologist and emotional support all the way! 

cheers

Video cannot be uploaded due to size. Youtube link

www.youtube.com/shorts/MjyAI58PMJI

Please post additional info and pics of the broken/repaired rotor magnet...

IMO do not trust the repair!

Replace the rotor with a known good original Kawasaki part.




 

I will definitely look for a good one that I can trust. This repair I take as temporary, so that I can finish the bike and get its MOT. I will no be using it in any intensity until I get the right part.

once said that, the chunk I glued with epoxy (jbweld) looks and feels perfect. Totally a pity

 

Hello! I have managed to source another rotor, in Germany. Magnets are intact, but there is a slight chipping in the edges. 

Do you guys think this is acceptable? 









Thank you!

Looks like it may of got really hot at some point but (IMHO) as long as the magnets are secure and intact it should do what you need