KZ650 Sleeper Build (KZ1000 engine transplant)

Could be two valve cover gaskets and/or top end aluminum spacer solve the cam cap stud clearance problem?

Today I was thinking about how my oil cooler lines go up in between the tank and the frame, so I ordered some heat resistant silicone/fiberglass sleeve. Hoping this will keep the line heat from effecting the gas tank.

It may be a bit of overkill but it has to be put over the lines before I crimp the hose ends on. A bit of a after thought on my part but better safe than sorry.

There is less room on the 650 frame in the tank tunnel area than on the bigger bikes to work with so I was thinking its going to make contact on the bare lines. 

I got a late start today so I was only able to mount the rear brake and install the rear wheel.



The upper brake banjo at the master had to be loosened because it fouled on the horn mount under the battery box (a new addition) I also had to take the inner plastic fender off to be able it fish the master thru. I will need to adjust the way the brake line is sitting and still have to hook up the rear brake lever.

Got the rear wheel on but did not want to move it to start installing the chain, that will need to be another day.



I did take some time and mock up the oil lines, looks to be close to what I was thinking so that's good. The lines will come down in the center of the frame between the rubber air ducts, seems to be just enough space between them. Can't cut anything yet till the carbs and air box are assembled.



I am using Aeroquip AQP socketless hose, its pretty flexible and I believe I will have some left over.
 

I got a bit of a earlier start today but spent more time setting up than wrenching.

Started off by adjusting the rear brake line similar to what it was when the bike was together as a 650. The brake line is a bit long but it will do for now.



Assembled the modified rear brake pedal, checked that its adjusted and working. Also put the kick start lever in place to make sure it clears OK and it did.









Got the above two jobs completed before moving the bike to get to the other side. Have to do a juggling act because there is a car normally parked directly in front of it most of the time.







Checked the chain line with the new O ring chain and it looks spot on so no need for any shim spacer.



Installed the SH775 regulator on the modified battery box. I took a picture of the battery box mod for a KZ650, you need to drill a new hole for the lower bolt/nut. New hole "breaks out" onto existing slot.





Below are some pics of my modified indicators that I use for soft saddle bags when mounting my luggage rack. They are stock KZ650 indicators I rubber mounted on a custom steel license plate holder. This lower position clears the bags.

 

 

I won't put the rack on till closer to the swap meet.

Hey injected, thanks for showing the rear brake pictures.  I'm in the process of changing my Z1 from rear drum to rear disc (because of the Z1R rear wheel I swapped). Helps me with making a bracket and location for the MC.

She’s coming together nicely:)

sf4t7 wrote:

Hey injected, thanks for showing the rear brake pictures.  I'm in the process of changing my Z1 from rear drum to rear disc (because of the Z1R rear wheel I swapped). Helps me with making a bracket and location for the MC.
 

No problem. This bike was originally a B1 drum brake bike that was converted to run GPZ550 wheels. The rear master tab only needs to be 1/8" bar stock, I have converted a few drum brake frames this way. You just need to get a disk brake swing arm or weld a tab to hold a caliper stay rod.

Thanks. I had found a Z1R swingarm so the stay is on top. I was planning on making the MC "adapter" from some steel 3/16 scrap from another project. Now I know it will work.
 

I got out in the garage today and was able to get the front sprocket torqued down.



Also got the started clutch gears and rotor installed.



Mocked up the covers on this side to check bolt engagement. Using generic SS bolts instead of a "kit" so some need shortened, they get screwed in then measured for now much they need to be modified.

Also want to check if the polish on that stator cover looks OK, acceptable from this distance. The sprocket cover yet to be sanded.

  

I had to take the air box off so I could peen over the front sprocket nut lock tab. Since its off I thought I would cover the opaque vent tube with black heat shrink.



I already covered the vent tube this way that vents the cam cover (black AN fitting)

The tubing I am using is for the brewing industry, its high heat silicone but does not come in black. The heat shrink covering also gives it a bit more rigidity. I had heat shrink for the small OD tube but not the bigger OD tube that's is on/in the air box so I had to order some.

A small detail but it will look better on the assembled bike.

Larger and more vents help to mitigate potential gasket leaks cause by increased internal pressure, especially when grossly enlarging the engine size.

It's the little details that make a "big" difference to the end result

I was able to get this cover sanded to 600 and hand polished, good enough for my tastes.



Waiting for 2 of the longer bolts to mount it, the ones I had on there did not give enough thread engagement so have some replacements coming. I have a 650 clutch rod actuator that is going on it, but need to strip it down and grease it first.