What size Piston kit to run with Mr Turbo kit

From the link :

同じ車両、同じエンジンオイルを用いてオイルポンプのみを交換しテストした結果、シリンダーヘッド温度が同じ状況においてアイドリング時の測定比較をすると、トロコイド式はノーマルギヤ式の3倍近い油圧（110：39）が発生しています

As a result of the test by replacing only the oil pump using the same vehicle and the same engine oil, when the cylinder head temperature is the same and the measurement comparison at idling, the trochoid type oil pressure is nearly three times that of the normal gear type (110:39) is occurring.

Pressure at idle stock is 39 kpa (5.6 PSI) and with the billet pump 110 kpa (15.9 PSI)

Looks like a 284% increase in pressure. I wonder if there are any stock seals or gaskets that would be at high risk of failure with so much extra pressure?

TexasKZ wrote:

Looks like a 284% increase in pressure. I wonder if there are any stock seals or gaskets that would be at high risk of failure with so much extra pressure?

All of the "lip seal" "O" rings and gasket appear similar to those that are commonplace in the automotive world where oil pressure is normally around 60-80 psi (15psi is only high in KZ World) I would guess the only area that might need extra attention would be the 4 crankcase studs that carry the oil to the head (particularly around the base gasket and the head bolt sealing washers)

Wookie58 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote:

Looks like a 284% increase in pressure. I wonder if there are any stock seals or gaskets that would be at high risk of failure with so much extra pressure?

All of the "lip seal" "O" rings and gasket appear similar to those that are commonplace in the automotive world where oil pressure is normally around 60-80 psi (15psi is only high in KZ World) I would guess the only area that might need extra attention would be the 4 crankcase studs that carry the oil to the head (particularly around the base gasket and the head bolt sealing washers)

I reckon that depends on which corner of the automotive world a person frequents. The Ford Model A (1928-31) generally has a pressure of 2psi or less when fully warm. Most of the lubricating is the result of splash. The ubiquitous Model T didn’t even have an oil pump. Totally splash method.

TexasKZ wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote:

Looks like a 284% increase in pressure. I wonder if there are any stock seals or gaskets that would be at high risk of failure with so much extra pressure?

All of the "lip seal" "O" rings and gasket appear similar to those that are commonplace in the automotive world where oil pressure is normally around 60-80 psi (15psi is only high in KZ World) I would guess the only area that might need extra attention would be the 4 crankcase studs that carry the oil to the head (particularly around the base gasket and the head bolt sealing washers)

I reckon that depends on which corner of the automotive world a person frequents. The Ford Model A (1928-31) generally has a pressure of 2psi or less when fully warm. Most of the lubricating is the result of splash. The ubiquitous Model T didn’t even have an oil pump. Totally splash method.

TexasKZ wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote:

Looks like a 284% increase in pressure. I wonder if there are any stock seals or gaskets that would be at high risk of failure with so much extra pressure?

All of the "lip seal" "O" rings and gasket appear similar to those that are commonplace in the automotive world where oil pressure is normally around 60-80 psi (15psi is only high in KZ World) I would guess the only area that might need extra attention would be the 4 crankcase studs that carry the oil to the head (particularly around the base gasket and the head bolt sealing washers)

I reckon that depends on which corner of the automotive world a person frequents. The Ford Model A (1928-31) generally has a pressure of 2psi or less when fully warm. Most of the lubricating is the result of splash. The ubiquitous Model T didn’t even have an oil pump. Totally splash method.

Texas you are of course right, however in response to your initial thoughts regarding possible leaks I was looking for a "like for like" comparison of the type of seals and gaskets used.  I am sure you would agree that even with a stock oil pump our KZ's would have "more leeks than a St David's day parade" if you tried to seal them with "rope" and leather gaskets as was the way back in the period you refer to 

Those pumps do include a pressure relieve valve, the adds mention GPZ type. Not sure what pressure they open at but its probably lower than whats used in the 650/750 engines.

Wookie58 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

TexasKZ wrote:

Looks like a 284% increase in pressure. I wonder if there are any stock seals or gaskets that would be at high risk of failure with so much extra pressure?

All of the "lip seal" "O" rings and gasket appear similar to those that are commonplace in the automotive world where oil pressure is normally around 60-80 psi (15psi is only high in KZ World) I would guess the only area that might need extra attention would be the 4 crankcase studs that carry the oil to the head (particularly around the base gasket and the head bolt sealing washers)

I reckon that depends on which corner of the automotive world a person frequents. The Ford Model A (1928-31) generally has a pressure of 2psi or less when fully warm. Most of the lubricating is the result of splash. The ubiquitous Model T didn’t even have an oil pump. Totally splash method.

Texas you are of course right, however in response to your initial thoughts regarding possible leaks I was looking for a "like for like" comparison of the type of seals and gaskets used.  I am sure you would agree that even with a stock oil pump our KZ's would have "more leeks than a St David's day parade" if you tried to seal them with "rope" and leather gaskets as was the way back in the period you refer to 

Indeed.

Sounds like a great way to create base and head gasket leaks, from high pressure oil flow up the studs.  The stock seals sometimes leak, and they aren't designed for all that pressure.

Nessism wrote:

Sounds like a great way to create base and head gasket leaks, from high pressure oil flow up the studs.  The stock seals sometimes leak, and they aren't designed for all that pressure.

 

That might not be an issue as the target audience for these pumps are highly modified engines which may already be converted to be "dry blocked" where you bypass the normal oil route thru the end studs and run external lines up to the cylinder head. This vastly cuts down on potential oil leaks.

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/608211-external-oil-feed-to-head
 

Hello all
I am finally retired. And finally have the time to finish bike this spring. Would like to start now but no heat in the barn.   Do have a question. I have forgotten  how to do the valve clearance on the gpz1100 camshafts with the ape slotted sprockets. I don't see any marks to line up with cylinder head. Any help appreciated.