1978 kz1000ltd wiring questions

wrote:

Snuck out of work a little early to test the connections by wookie58. Now I always had signals. Now I have an alive motor!... I do not have however have a headlight or horn. Tomorrow I will explore a little more. I also want to take some of the powdercoating off the frame at the horn mount and some of the paint off the underside of the left side handlebar control. Thinking maybe not grounding? (but the signals work so maybe that probably is not going to help).  I already did the right side because of the throttle. Very close and cannot thank wookie58 enough.

Untill we have sorted the "right" switch the supply to the two 10amp fuses will be effected so most things won't work yet (the turn signals are fed by the ignition switch) 
As Mikaw said don't start grinding PC off the frame there are other ways, especially where the horn is concerned HRM is right, it doesn't ground through the mount (the horn button switches a ground to the handlebar) There is nothing in the "right" switch that requires a ground


 

Wookie58, I believe you asked about the light buttons on the right switch. Currently have lights only if I switch to the on position... low and high beams work. No horn. My clutch cable is not connected yet so the clutch switch only starts bike if the clutch handle is pulled in. If I push it out it will not start bike.So something with the clutch switch. Shoudnt the bike start with the right switch in the po position and lights come on? Currently only starts in the po or on position and no lights till i switch to on. Which I guess is right since i dont have a secondart light. My Z1 starts and lights come on at both positions. I guess I should install the clutch cable and figure that out.



 

wrote:

Wookie58, I believe you asked about the light buttons on the right switch. Currently have lights only if I switch to the on position... low and high beams work This is correct.   No horn Have you checked which colour wire goes to the horn button (as per red text in the chart)  .  My clutch cable is not connected yet so the clutch switch only starts bike if the clutch handle is pulled in. If I push it out it will not start bike.So something with the clutch switch This is correct for safety so you can't start without the clutch in case it's in gear   . Shoudnt the bike start with the right switch in the po position The position of the light switch shouldn't effect starting - this is why I need to see inside the right switch   and lights come on? Currently only starts in the po or on position and no lights till i switch to on. Which I guess is right since i dont have a secondart light. My Z1 starts and lights come on at both positions. I guess I should install the clutch cable and figure that out. The clutch side of things is fine




 

Where we are looking to get to is as below, with the exception of the horn all the issues -now relate to the right switch so that's why I need a clear view of inside it

"PO" position - Instrument lights and on a US spec front running lights (if it has three wire indicators fitted) which remain on when moving to the "On" position
"On" position - High and Low headlight - Which appears correct now
Kill switch in the "Run" position- Engine starts regardless of light switch position
Stick with it we are really close now 

Here is some pictures of the inside right switch.

Great.. Hooked up clutch cable now I have a no start. So it seems the clutch switch is becoming part of this problem.

wrote:

Great.. Hooked up clutch cable now I have a no start. So it seems the clutch switch is becoming part of this problem.l

Does it start with the clutch lever pulled in ? If so it is as it should be for the clutch switch

No, It does not. It did start with it pulled only prior to installing clutch cable.

wrote:

No, It does not. It did start with it pulled only prior to installing clutch cable.

What about if you manually operate the switch with a small screwdriver ?

wrote:

No, It does not. It did start with it pulled only prior to installing clutch cable.

Could it be the GP style lever. Was that lever in place during previous test when it worked. If yes then the clutch cable needs more free play 

I pulled the clutch switch out. It was still hooked up to the wires and it will fire with and without it pulled in. Interesting.

Ok back to the right switch -
Red + Brown from the switch to the brown from the loom
Yellow/Red + Red/White from the switch to Yellow/Red from the loom
Black from the switch to Clutch Switch
Blue from the switch to Blue/White from the loom
Blue/Red from the switch to Brown/White spots from the loom (CHECK THAT THE BROWN/WHITE SPOTS GOES TO ONE OF THE 10amp FUSES AND THAT BOTH BROWN/WHITES ARE JOINED IN THE LOOM -in the factory loom this would be Brown/White from the switch to the fuse and the spare Brown/White spots is an auxiliary that is not used)


Check what wire goes to the horn button in the left switch and using a piece of wire with a fuse in it short the Back/White from the loom to ground to test the horn 
Be Lucky 

Btw, don´t forget to drill a hole into your bar for the locator pin.