Exposed wires

I have a 1982 kz750e2 4cyl and i dont have a fuel level sensor or kick stand switch so i have a brown wire, 2 green/white wires and 2 black/ yellow wires that i dont know what to do with. I can have a brand new battery or a fully charged battery and after turning it over once the battery with be drained. Is it because of these 5 wires that arent going to anything thats making it drain that fast? I have a downloaded manual but i get so lost looking at the wiring diagram. What do i do with them? 

As long as those connectors and that raw wire on the brown cable do not touch anything metallic, they cannot drain the battery. On the other hand, if one of them accidentally brushes against something metal, it could cause a spark leading to a fire.
At the very least, those connectors and that raw wire need to be insulated with shrink tubing or some high quality electrical tape. 
If you are not going to use the fuel level indicator, then I would chase each green wire back to the next connector, and remove it completely.
The brown wire may be more complicated. I do not have a wiring diagram handy for that model, but i suspect it needs to be reconnected to the wire on the other side of the side stand switch to complete the circuit. I recommend doing nothing with it until you are sure about how to proceed. Hopefully one of the members with electrical expertise will be along shortly with some sage advice.

I think the brown wire is a hot one.  If you have a meter you can check them all out but I'm guessing only the brown one is hot.  Kawasaki often has a spare brown wire near the headlight for accessories. 

The black and yellow wires are ground.It should not matter if they touch the frame, but they should be insulated anyway. 

I'm not sure what the green wires are for.  Sidestand or clutch lockout maybe?

The connectors on the wires indicate they came from a plug connector.  If you look for plug connectors on your wiring diagram you may be able to find where each wire came from originally.  The diagram should show wire colours.

Low fuel warning light, fuel level sensor and warning light self checker.

 
 
 

I would secure the wires by installing plastic connectors and missing terminal pins, matching the oem stuff that's now gone.  An open barrel crimper is handy for stuff like this. CycleTerminal, VintageConnections, or Z1Enterprises will have what you'd need. I would also label them for future reference. For any wires not routed to a connector originally, I would install good stock type terminal covers in which case you'd need to install new matching terminal pins.  Additionally, you could secure any dangling wires w stock wire bands.

Since were on topic, may I ask what solder works best with this particular type of wire? I've periodically had issues soldering this old wiring so thought I'd see what say ya all been using?

 Rosin core solder, rosin flux or soldering paste (Never use solder or soldering paste designed for plumbing work, as it contains an acid that will corrode the electrical joint, ruining it).

Gdailey2112 wrote:

Since were on topic, may I ask what solder works best with this particular type of wire? I've periodically had issues soldering this old wiring so thought I'd see what say ya all been using?

Pretty much any decent quality flux cored solder will do what you need for automotive wiring. The issue you are probably up against trying to solder old wire is contamination. If the copper has blackened with corrosion/age then as you heat it the corrosion contaminates the joint. Ideally you need to cut back to clean copper (the same is true with a crimped joint as the corrosion will continue and create resistance between the wire and the crimp connector) the other thing is heat the wire not the solder, if you hold the heat under the wire and apply the solder from the top then if it's hot enough the solder will melt on the wire and be drawn into the joint.
If you can't cut back to clean copper then heat the wire and apply plumbers flux, heat until it's bubbling and wipe off with a rag, repeat a couple of times then apply the solder and you have half a chance of a decent joint. (Be careful not to overheat and melt the insulation)

Sorry  Cfoux85  certainly not trying to hijack your post. 
Wookie - Last question, when it's deemed that a wire should be replaced, what might I use that's considered good and hi quality wire? Please don't bash, I did not search 

Gdailey2112 wrote:

Sorry  Cfoux85  certainly not trying to hijack your post. 
Wookie - Last question, when it's deemed that a wire should be replaced, what might I use that's considered good and hi quality wire? Please don't bash, I did not search 

As long as you use the right gauge wire for the circuit being repaired and use a "multi-strand" cable designed for automotive use (same gauge cables come with different thickness of insulation dependent on the voltage they have to carry) you should be fine

If I may, wire designated as MTW makes a great automotive wire. MTW actually stands for Machine Tool Wire. XHHW is also an excellent choice

www.southwire.com/wire-cable/leadwire/mtw/p/LW75

 

Thank you Slayer61!