Diagnosing handling problems. Solution

redneckcarrow wrote: just a guestion when you did the run down the hill were you in your lane or the center of the road?

Both- took into account that wallow and crown. Torqued my body to climb up the wallow over the crown, took quite a bit to get it to climb right, and nearly nothing to get it to climb left.

and yup, its a shafty. Had three shafts and haven't experienced this sort of thing.

found this: www.dunlopmotorcycle.com/info-center/care-and-maintenance/#tip

summation:
CHECKING TIRE PRESSURE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT TIRE MAINTENANCE FUNCTION YOU AND YOUR CUSTOMER CAN PERFORM.

For high-speed, fully loaded or dual-riding touring-motorcycle applications, inflate tires to maximum recommended by vehicle manufacturer for Dunlop fitment. Never exceed maximum load indicated on tire sidewall or vehicle capacity load found in owner’s manual, whichever is lower.

Underinflated tires can result in imprecise cornering, higher running temperatures, irregular tread wear, fatigue cracking, overstressing and eventual failure of the tire carcass, or loss of control, which could cause accident, injury or death.

Overinflating tires does not increase load-carrying capacity, but will result in a hard ride and accelerated tire wear in the center of the contact patch.

Advise your customers to check cold tire pressure frequently with a good-quality gauge that holds a reading, and always before extended trips.

Loss of pressure may occur due to worn-out or badly seated valve cores. Check valve cores, and if necessary, tighten for correct seating, or remove and replace them. A metal or hard-plastic valve cap with an inner gasket should be used and installed finger-tight to protect the valve core from dust and moisture and to help maintain a positive air seal.
"For touring motorcycle loading, follow these general guidelines:
A. Light loads-single rider with some luggage (up to 200 lb. total)-minimum tire pressure of 32 psi front and 36 psi rear must be maintained.
B. Heavier loads-dual riding and/or luggage (from 200 lb. total up to maximum motorcycle capacity stated in the owner's manual)-pressure of 36 psi front and 40 psi rear must be maintained.
Please Note:
For any dual riding or fully loaded use, 40 psi must be maintained in all Dunlop rear tires fitted to touring motorcycles."

It would seem I'm running WAY too low pressures- I've played around with 28-34 PSI. Its my vetter 1100, heavy bike for tire size, and I'm an ape- 230#
ok, THIS is good news, will start out with 36f and 40r shortly.
I'll post back later- nothings worse than to finally search for your problem and find a three year old thread with all the same symptoms, and a claim of a fix, and NO feedback...
ride safe

I just noticed your signature, do you have one of those large Vetter fairings on your bike? Vetter used to make a real honker of one.... I'm wondering if the additional weight load of your fairing combined with a possible slightly bent fork tube or another front end issue might be causing this. Can you post some front end pics of your bike? Doug

Photos where, straight on? Or side, I can certainly post up a photo.
Yes, its the Vetter- had the front off at one point, it weighs about 20 pounds maybe 25?
I had recently put new progressive springs in, new seals, new steering bearing. New tires as well.
rolled the tubes they seemed straight. Looked at them looking for problems, nothing sucks MORE than putting something back together and having to take it apart a week later.

i wonder if the neck is tweaked on the frame a little?

leon

My GS1100 shaftie would do that and it tuned out to be the air in the front forks unequal. Do you have air assisted front forks?

Yup, air assist, but a unified set up, only one air fitting. And its about 3#'s now as I recall.

Do you have a fried that can follow to see if it is doglegging on you. My riding buddy alerted me to worn swing arm bushings by telling me my bike was not tracking right. Upon further investigation my rear tire was showing wear on on side more than the other but that was a chain drive 900.

Well, adding that additional air to the tires helped. 34 front/ 36 rear

I'll get a bud to follow soon and observe. Back on the jack stands to see if I missed something.

After going over the whole thing I think maybe the forks are tweaked. Not much, but enough to create this problem. I did hit a rock last fall...maybe that did it.
Everything "looks" good. I did hang the front end, loosen the bolts and hold the wheel with my legs, move the bars left/right and then readjust/tighten down.


Hey, I read this on some forum, is it accurate information? I didn't drop the bike, but I'm thinking the same logic applies?

You've simply twisted the forks out of alignment.

The correct way to resolve this problem is to relieve all pressure from the forks (hanging the front of the bike from the rafters is OK), and then loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps.

Give the bars a light shake and the forks will probably re-align. Now tighten the bolts back and you'll probably be OK.

If it needs further adjustment, you can do that by re-loosening the bolts and pulling on the bars in the appropriate direction while the front wheel is held solid.

Hope this helps.

it is pretty sound info.

i generally look em over pretty good and use some straightedges across the legs and stuff to eyeball and insure i think the wheel is square with the bike.

or pull em off and get out the surface plate and dial indicators. :whistle:




leon

I actually made the mistake of taking the bike in for seals and springs- they said 2 days, I knew if I did it...at least a week with life interfering.
I was told they inspected them for any run out....................So, if that info is correct, is it possible for them to be tweaked in the tripletree?
argh...hate asking noob questions. Usually I'll stare at the problem till the solution comes logically.

Yes Straight forks can be installed in a manner that they r not true in the trees.i recall reading and artical stating that there is actualy a proper procedure on tightening the forks so they r true in the trees.
i think the post u had above would adress this .