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Diagnosing handling problems. Solution
- Patton
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[Similar to the feeling when a steering damper is adjusted too tightly.]
When adjusting tightness of the steering head bearings -- with front end suspended -- first loosen both lower tube clamp bolts, which allows the tubes to re-seat themselves inside the clamps while the steering head bearing are being adjusted.
Next proceed with the adjusting process for tightening or loosening the steering head bearings:
Loosen the top chrome steering head nut;
Loosen the side-located clamp nut;
Turn the adjustment nut (probably with a spanner tool) to tighten or loosen -- this is when the fork tubes will be re-seating themselves inside the lower fork tube clamps ;
Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and without feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;
When correctly adjusted, tighten the top nut and clamp nut;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel;
Tighten both lower tube clamp bolts;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel (looking for no play and no drag from the steering head bearings).
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Medina
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Patton wrote: If the steering head bearings are adjusted too tightly, it may cause steering to pull one way or the other.
[Similar to the feeling when a steering damper is adjusted too tightly.]
When adjusting tightness of the steering head bearings -- with front end suspended -- first loosen both lower tube clamp bolts, which allows the tubes to re-seat themselves inside the clamps while the steering head bearing are being adjusted.
Next proceed with the adjusting process for tightening or loosening the steering head bearings:
Loosen the top chrome steering head nut;
Loosen the side-located clamp nut;
Turn the adjustment nut (probably with a spanner tool) to tighten or loosen -- this is when the fork tubes will be re-seating themselves inside the lower fork tube clamps ;
Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and with feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;
When correctly adjusted, tighten the top nut and clamp nut;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel;
Tighten both lower tube clamp bolts;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel (looking for no play and no drag from the steering head bearings).
Good Fortune!
printing and off to garage after customers leave, boy comes home to do this...my shop manual is so freaking vague-it assumes one has done this hundreds of times and only addresses specifics to that bike.
1981 KZ1100 Vetter "Luminous Navy Blue" DAMN YOU COLOR CODES!
Medina, Oh
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- Patton
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Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and without feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Zedone
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1977 KZ1000A1
1977 KZ1000A1 (Superbike Project)
1969 Chevrolet C/10 Short Fleet
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- Medina
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Patton wrote: Note edit:
Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and without feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;
Hmm, a bit confused, bikes on a jack, the steering feels free- there is binding towards the end of the turn- but sounds like the bundled cable making noise vs. bearings binding.
I used a pull gauge- 5.25 pounds from center to far right, 6.5# from center to far left- both pulls the same till right to the point the sound of the cables interfering with the turn. (hard left turn you can feel/hear that cable bundle)
My manual says from center the handlebars will fall "gravity" to the stop?
Loosened the bottom two bolts holding the forks, I can feel some play at that point- guessing the forks are loose in the clamps. No play before I loosened them.
I'll take some photos zedone when I can get the bike out of the garage- rain, cold, working on it in a cramped 1950's one car garage, LOL.
1981 KZ1100 Vetter "Luminous Navy Blue" DAMN YOU COLOR CODES!
Medina, Oh
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- 650ed
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Attachment spanneradapt.JPG not found
Attachment Spannerandwrench.jpg not found
Attachment TorqueTable.jpg not found
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Medina
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When its set to that, I swear I can feel some forward/rearward movement when I pull back and forth down by the axle.
Or, is that slack taken up when I torque the main 19mm nut back down?
1981 KZ1100 Vetter "Luminous Navy Blue" DAMN YOU COLOR CODES!
Medina, Oh
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- 650ed
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Attachment SteeringStemNut.jpg not found
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Medina
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My confusion is when the lower lock nut feels like its adjusted correctly, there is play in the bottom of the fork, barely noticeable, but there.
When I've tightened up the lower lock nut to where that play is gone, the steering takes way too much effort.
I was under the impression, ideally, the handle bars should nearly flop to the side.
1981 KZ1100 Vetter "Luminous Navy Blue" DAMN YOU COLOR CODES!
Medina, Oh
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www.kzrider.com/forum/10-new-members/469298-from-ohio
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- les holt
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HTH
Les
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- Patton
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 650ed
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les holt wrote: I see you repacked and tightened steering bearings, If your still using the stock ball bearing setup I'm betting your bottom race is dimpled, usually caused from wheelies in its past. If possible change out to tapered bearings as they have more bearing contact to race and have a much smoother feel. If you don't have the original style bearings then I'm kinda stumped. I too have had some bizarre problems that were a bear to diagnose.
HTH
Les
+1 - the tapered roller bearings are a real improvement over the originals which dimple very easily - one of the very few changes I have made from stock but well worth the effort. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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