Diagnosing handling problems. Solution

If the steering head bearings are adjusted too tightly, it may cause steering to pull one way or the other.
[Similar to the feeling when a steering damper is adjusted too tightly.]

When adjusting tightness of the steering head bearings -- with front end suspended -- first loosen both lower tube clamp bolts, which allows the tubes to re-seat themselves inside the clamps while the steering head bearing are being adjusted.

Next proceed with the adjusting process for tightening or loosening the steering head bearings:
Loosen the top chrome steering head nut;
Loosen the side-located clamp nut;
Turn the adjustment nut (probably with a spanner tool) to tighten or loosen -- this is when the fork tubes will be re-seating themselves inside the lower fork tube clamps ;
Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and without feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;
When correctly adjusted, tighten the top nut and clamp nut;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel;
Tighten both lower tube clamp bolts;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel (looking for no play and no drag from the steering head bearings).

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: If the steering head bearings are adjusted too tightly, it may cause steering to pull one way or the other.
[Similar to the feeling when a steering damper is adjusted too tightly.]

When adjusting tightness of the steering head bearings -- with front end suspended -- first loosen both lower tube clamp bolts, which allows the tubes to re-seat themselves inside the clamps while the steering head bearing are being adjusted.

Next proceed with the adjusting process for tightening or loosening the steering head bearings:
Loosen the top chrome steering head nut;
Loosen the side-located clamp nut;
Turn the adjustment nut (probably with a spanner tool) to tighten or loosen -- this is when the fork tubes will be re-seating themselves inside the lower fork tube clamps ;
Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and with feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;
When correctly adjusted, tighten the top nut and clamp nut;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel;
Tighten both lower tube clamp bolts;
Re-test for free swinging movement of front wheel (looking for no play and no drag from the steering head bearings).

Good Fortune!

printing and off to garage after customers leave, boy comes home to do this...my shop manual is so freaking vague-it assumes one has done this hundreds of times and only addresses specifics to that bike.

Note edit:

Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and without feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;

Good Fortune!

How are you making out Medina? Can you post pics of the front end, various angles (straight on, left & right side) I am just curious to see your bike. It may help to overcome your issue. How big was the rock you hit? What damage did it do? Did you crash when you hit it? Are we talking spoke or mag front wheel? Sometimes these problems are a cranky to address but don't let it discourage you, I almost lost my marbles with an alignment issue with one of my bikes...... turned out to be a bent swingarm and I've been doing this stuff a long time :blink:

Patton wrote: Note edit:

Test for free swinging movement of front wheel in both directions without feeling any play in the steering head bearings from too loose adjustment, and without feeling any drag in the steering head bearings caused by too tight adjustment;

Hmm, a bit confused, bikes on a jack, the steering feels free- there is binding towards the end of the turn- but sounds like the bundled cable making noise vs. bearings binding.
I used a pull gauge- 5.25 pounds from center to far right, 6.5# from center to far left- both pulls the same till right to the point the sound of the cables interfering with the turn. (hard left turn you can feel/hear that cable bundle)
My manual says from center the handlebars will fall "gravity" to the stop?
Loosened the bottom two bolts holding the forks, I can feel some play at that point- guessing the forks are loose in the clamps. No play before I loosened them.


I'll take some photos zedone when I can get the bike out of the garage- rain, cold, working on it in a cramped 1950's one car garage, LOL.

Another way to ensure the steering stem bearings are properly tightened is to use a modified spanner and torque wrench (folks know I’m a big believer in torque wrenches). I attached my spanner to a metal bar and then cut a 3/8” square hole in the bar centered 7” from the centerline of the spanner lug. I can now attach this to my torque wrench. Keeping the spanner bar in the same line as the torque wrench, I can now adjust the torque of the steering stem bearings to the spec recommended in the service manual. Of course, you absolutely must take into account the extra leverage that results from the 7” spanner bar length or you will greatly over-tighten the bearings. Fortunately, the formula and instructions for calculating the correct, adjusted torque setting is clearly described on the CDI (Snap-On) website. If anyone has an interest in more details, just ask. I used the modified tool below when I installed my tapered roller bearings and it worked like a charm. The forks have zero excess play but still will swing lock to lock with no binding. Ed

The one gray area I'm having is its my understanding once pushed off center, the wheel should fall left or right via gravity, right?
When its set to that, I swear I can feel some forward/rearward movement when I pull back and forth down by the axle.
Or, is that slack taken up when I torque the main 19mm nut back down?

No, the steering stem head bolt (#1 in pic below) doesn't actually tighten the bearings. Only the lock nut (#4) does that. Ed

Thanks, got that.
My confusion is when the lower lock nut feels like its adjusted correctly, there is play in the bottom of the fork, barely noticeable, but there.
When I've tightened up the lower lock nut to where that play is gone, the steering takes way too much effort.
I was under the impression, ideally, the handle bars should nearly flop to the side.

I see you repacked and tightened steering bearings, If your still using the stock ball bearing setup I'm betting your bottom race is dimpled, usually caused from wheelies in its past. If possible change out to tapered bearings as they have more bearing contact to race and have a much smoother feel. If you don't have the original style bearings then I'm kinda stumped. I too have had some bizarre problems that were a bear to diagnose.
HTH

Les

Excerpt from original Z1 Owner's Manual:



Good Fortune!

les holt wrote: I see you repacked and tightened steering bearings, If your still using the stock ball bearing setup I'm betting your bottom race is dimpled, usually caused from wheelies in its past. If possible change out to tapered bearings as they have more bearing contact to race and have a much smoother feel. If you don't have the original style bearings then I'm kinda stumped. I too have had some bizarre problems that were a bear to diagnose.
HTH

Les

+1 - the tapered roller bearings are a real improvement over the originals which dimple very easily - one of the very few changes I have made from stock but well worth the effort. Ed