Chain clearances

I have been working on my build and started smashing the frame to get some clearance from the chain. So my question is how much of a gap is sufficent with minimal to no rubbing. I will be powdercoating the frame and would hate for the chain to rub very much at all. Thanks, Eric

I installed a Gpz1100 engine into a GPz750 frame after powdercoating the frame and gettingit all back together I found out the chain hit the frame at the lower rear cross member. I did not take that into account when I mocked it all up. I tried several solutions before arriving at one that worked. I used a sprocket to hold the chain off the frame, to bulky, I used a chain roller, too noisy. I finally just used an old chain slder I had. I cut the slider up and layed on top of the effected area. I then drilled a small hole through the bottom of the tranny cover and bolted the slider directly under the chain. Has been working great for two years now.
I would say the more clearance you can get the better. As the chain stretches it will hang down and unless you watch really close it will eventualy start hitting the frame. Had I to do it all over again I would have cut out the crossmember and moved it further down. I really don't like "smashing" any structual member.

Would a smaller engine and drive sprocket set help raise the chain enough so it wouldn't rub? Ed

baldy110 wrote: I installed a Gpz1100 engine into a GPz750 frame after powdercoating the frame and gettingit all back together I found out the chain hit the frame at the lower rear cross member. I did not take that into account when I mocked it all up. I tried several solutions before arriving at one that worked. I used a sprocket to hold the chain off the frame, to bulky, I used a chain roller, too noisy. I finally just used an old chain slder I had. I cut the slider up and layed on top of the effected area. I then drilled a small hole through the bottom of the tranny cover and bolted the slider directly under the chain. Has been working great for two years now.
I would say the more clearance you can get the better. As the chain stretches it will hang down and unless you watch really close it will eventualy start hitting the frame. Had I to do it all over again I would have cut out the crossmember and moved it further down. I really don't like "smashing" any structual member.

I never even thought about it rubbing the bottom member. When its mocked up it dont look that close to rubbing but guess it could. Ill look into that. I dont really like smashing the frame either but its not like iam smashing in that far anyway. That and i wanna keep my soon to be powdercoat looking good as long as possible. Thanks for the info. Anyone one else wanna chime in?

Yeah it din't occur to me that the chain would have hit the frame. I mocked it all up nad installed a chain and it looked great. Once I put it all together I realized, oops it does rub. Just one of many things that don't quite go as expected on a custom build. Good luck.

are you talking about chain side clearance?

leon

I think thats what you would call it. I am running 5/8th offset and wanna leave enough room so it wont rub the frame.

an 1/8 of an inch(.125)is plenty .

i think i get away with a little less than that,with no problems.

leon

p.s. mark said he heated his frame up and used a c-clamp to crush the inside tube for chain clearance.

531blackbanshee wrote: an 1/8 of an inch(.125)is plenty .

i think i get away with a little less than that,with no problems.

leon

p.s. mark said he heated his frame up and used a c-clamp to crush the inside tube for chain clearance.

Thats what i did except i didnt have a good enough c clamp so i used a pair of vise grips.

Pictures of the carnage?

Reminds of how BSA resolved frame clearance on the Goldie.






Good Fortune!

baldy110 wrote: I installed a Gpz1100 engine into a GPz750 frame after powdercoating the frame and gettingit all back together I found out the chain hit the frame at the lower rear cross member. I did not take that into account when I mocked it all up. I tried several solutions before arriving at one that worked. I used a sprocket to hold the chain off the frame, to bulky, I used a chain roller, too noisy. I finally just used an old chain slder I had. I cut the slider up and layed on top of the effected area. I then drilled a small hole through the bottom of the tranny cover and bolted the slider directly under the chain. Has been working great for two years now.
I would say the more clearance you can get the better. As the chain stretches it will hang down and unless you watch really close it will eventualy start hitting the frame. Had I to do it all over again I would have cut out the crossmember and moved it further down. I really don't like "smashing" any structual member.

Your a life saver! Super glad you posted this..I just ran into this and was like FAWK! :pinch: Then I did a search before posting and found this first hit. :woohoo: