Piston Hole Kz1000LTD 1982

 

Copy of the BS34 Carb Sync instructions, KZ1100 Shaft Factory Service Manual


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Thank you Daveo. I’m following the manual as you sent me. However main issue is that for cylinders 1 and 2, vacuum will be extremely low, I comparison to 3, and whenever I try to get it higher, the engine starts knocking.

I assume low vacuum would come from low compression, which could come from wrong assembly of piston rings… which in turn would imply opening the engine again.

i am going to do a compression test, and see from there.

 

Take a breath Carlos - vacum is created against a closed throttle so an air leak would cause low vacum readings. Are all the vac pipes fitted correctly - fuel tap, others capped unless you have the emission valve still fitted (if you still have the emission valve, disconnect the pipes from the carbs and cap the outlets on the carbs) does it improve ? 

Edit: just seen from your pics you have them capped ! - are your intake manifolds new and where are they from ?

 

Carbs #1 and #2 to need to be sync'd to each other with ○1, and then #3 and #4 to each other with ○2
Finally #'s 1/2 and #'s 3/4 to each other with ○3

Is that correct?

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Tool of choice!
 

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cartal wrote:

Thank you Daveo. I’m following the manual as you sent me. However main issue is that for cylinders 1 and 2, vacuum will be extremely low, I comparison to 3, and whenever I try to get it higher, the engine starts knocking.


 

Carlos are you following the process Daveo has highlight !&2 then 3&4 then bring the two pairs together (you will need to make constant adjustments to the idle speed throughout the process) don't get hung up on what the gauges are reading at this point, just that the readings are equal

Hi and thank you all for the feedback. 

I guess I was a bit carried away yesterday. I did, however, check compression on all cylinders, and they all read a bit low; but I trust these numbers will go up once new pistons and rings seat.

Wookie, yes I was following Daveo’s method with the manual. I take boots are all new and original Kawasaki part, from Cmsnl.

As I think I messed up with the vacuometer, just got carried away, I have now taken the carbs off again and will do a manual balancing before getting them in, as per the manual.

One of the things I can see already is that one of the butterflies is very closed, and will not be regulated by the screws (it
moves alright with the throttle, but doesn’t with the screw). It’s carb #2, the one with the green screwdriver for id purposes).

Once I get them all more or less equal, they will go in again.

By the way; spark plugs were black and sooty, so I ve changed the needlew to the third slot (middle) in all carbs. I think i wrongfully got the in the second from the top.

Finally, my main jets are 127,5. Does that sound right? They are the ones that were originally in the bike, but seeing how it has been butchered before, I trust nothing. 

cheers! 



 

One more thing, I am starting on 1,5 turns out for the pilot screws. Manual says 1,1/4.

The compression test values were:

CYL 1: 100 psi
cyl 2: 120 psi
cyl 3: 130 psi
cyl 4: 120 psi

all measurements with throttle fully opened 

I now (carbs in bench) understand how the bolts that regulate the butterflies work.

All 4 are now (looking) equal.

 

If you wind in the idle adjuster until you can slide a 4mm drill bit in the gap on #3 then adjust the other three using the drill bit as a gauge
centre adjuster moves #2 in relation to #3
outer adjusters move #1 & #4 in relation to #2 & #3

Wookie, this was really helpful. Excellent way of having the same gap.

i cannot get a 4mm bit in there (not wide enough), but tried with a different thing and worked well.

on to the bike they go!

Perfect, don't forget to wind the idle adjuster back off before you start the engine or it will "rev it's nuts off" !!!!

Wookie may i suggest a "better" way Please? While the twist bit method may work fine on slide style carbs, not so good on the butterfly style. Actually the combined torsion of all the springs can corrupt the beveled edge on the butterflies, it's sharp and meant to stay that way for sealing. Check this out. Shown are two similar BS34's, one Suzuki, one Kawasaki. Suzuki had 3 bypass holes, Kawasaki 81 thru? had only two. Number 3 carb is Your base carb on both. Adjust #3 so the intake facing bypass hole is exactly halfway covered, continue with the remaining carbs.