Piston Hole Kz1000LTD 1982

This is a video from last night. Nothing changes, but just added the shiny bits.

Bike started great, no smoke on exhausts, no hanging high rpm. Actually everything looks good.

maybe I’m going paranoid, but when I move to the alternator side of the bike, I seem to hear some kind of rumbling noise. Can you hear it? If so, what could that be?

Does the noise change if you pull the clutch lever ?
The below are inexpensive and I find really useful to pin down noises

Pardon the carb slide clatter:
photos.app.goo.gl/4J2SiavMmXtGoHSB7

Couple questions...
Have the head nuts been re-torqued since running the engine?
What was the generator rotor bolt torqued to?

🧐

daveo wrote:

Couple questions...
Have the head nuts been re-torqued since running the engine?
What was the generator rotor bolt torqued to?

🧐

Actually, no. I have not yet retorqued the head. Was planning to do it next weekend.

As torque for the rotor bolt, I cannot remember. I do remember I could not torque it right, as engine was out of the frame at the time. I will have to look into that as well. 
Actually, the noise I hear really comes from the generator area

 

Had a beautiful, brand new rotor spin loose one day after I installed it. 
That was one of those days.

Spec is 94 ft-lbs

😉

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/540846-oh-brother#540846

The tool:
 

 

Thank you Daveo. I built a holder tool and have the bolt.

What is the ball bearing used for? 

 

I use a ball bearing to center the tightening pressure of the bolt against the crank hole perimeter vs. the tip.  
The ball also engages a recess at the bolt-end, simply made with a center-punch and drill bit at the center.

🙂
 

Daveo, I took my alternator cover off and fortunately everything is still intact. I did go up to 94 ft-lb (actually as much as my dinamometric tool will go). Bolt didn’t move, so I guess I did torque it before.

however, looking into the manual, torque value is even higher and the process to follow is torque, remove and torque again.

should I do this while everything is open?

I also retorqued the head and only minimal movement was present in the large nuts and a bit more in the little tiny side bolts (which scared the hell out of me, thinking about breaking one). All well there

 

While you are in there does the starter clutch feel ok? did you fit the rubber damper to stop it "chattering"?

 

116 ft lbs is the correct torque for the rotor bolt according to my 81-84 KZ1100 factory service manual.
For some reason the original edition 81-82 KZ1100 factory service manual shows 94 ft lbs...posted earlier.  Huh. 🧐

Far as the head nuts, I may have broke loose and retorqured each nut independently, while working through the FSM sequence.

Consider other member opinions on that though...

Got some work done this weekend. Undid and retorqued the alternator bolt. Also got some help at on the joint as Inhad a slight seepage.

Also, took the carbs off and got some engine silicone sealant into the carb boots. Trying to rule out air intake.

Finally got the pilot bolts to 2,5 turns and got ready for a short ride around the block.

Bike ran like a champ for 10 minutes, and suddenly started missing, like going on two cylinders and also the rev counter was dead. When two cylinders were out, there was the knocking noise again. I think there is an electrical problem here.

I have also lost the horn in the process; so I believe it has something to do with the left handlebar switch.

Also, coils look original, although cables are
new. I may try new coils as well.

Please take a look at the video. This is taken after it had died on me suddenly, and restarted just on two.

cartal wrote:

Bike ran like a champ for 10 minutes, and suddenly started missing, like going on two cylinders and also the rev counter was dead. When two cylinders were out, there was the knocking noise again. I think there is an electrical problem here.

I have also lost the horn in the process; so I believe it has something to do with the left handlebar switch.

Also, coils look original, although cables are
new. I may try new coils as well.

Hi Carlos, the tacho gets it's pulse from one of the coil trigger wires (black) I would start by checking the connectors on the two plugs for the "igniter". the pulse is taken between the igniter and the coil so I would only expect a coil to knock out the tacho if it is going to ground when hot (you could swop the coils over and try it again as if it's the coil it won't knock out the tacho when swopped and triggered by the green wire)
The horn is a separate issue as there is no link to the tacho circuit