Piston Hole Kz1000LTD 1982

cartal wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

Personally I would go with the DS2-1 (either genuine or the copy I posted) I don't know about yours but the wires on my original igniter have hardened and the insulation cracks every time you flex the cables

I´m definitely inclined to go the copy way, as the cost is a fraction of the original (DS2-1).

Do you have the feeling a copy will be up to the test? 

If you search previous posts there are a lot of guys on here using the copies without issue

Dynatek - KZRider Forum - KZRider, KZ, Z1 & Z Motorcycle Enthusiast's Forum

 

The Dyna 2000 provides references for accurate timing adjustment.

How is ignition timing set with the replacement systems being considered?

🧐

daveo wrote:

 The Dyna 2000 provides references for accurate timing adjustment.

How is ignition timing set with the replacement systems being considered?

🧐

The DS2 retains the factory advancer with the factory timing marks

I bit the bullet and just bought a copy for 43 euro, 47 with shipping, and no customs nightmare…

One question (more!). The Ds2-1 does not come with an igniter box. Does it use the original igniter? Is it just a question of plugging in the new cables to the old Connector?

cheers

cartal wrote:

I bit the bullet and just bought a copy for 43 euro, 47 with shipping, and no customs nightmare…

One question (more!). The Ds2-1 does not come with an igniter box. Does it use the original igniter? Is it just a question of plugging in the new cables to the old Connector?

cheers

It is self contained (doesn't use an igniter) just wire it as per the diagram I posted (straight to the wiring that goes to the original igniter

It’s here! It arrived. Will give it a try tonight. 
 

Have been looking at it for a while but it seems to be easy. I just need to take the cables from the new ds2-1 to the connector where the igniter cables plug in.

coming from the igniter, I have 4 cables. Red/yellow, green, black and yellow/black

these go into a 4 terminal plug, and the out cables are red, green, black and thick black 
In the old plug, red goes with red, green goes with green, black goes with black and I assume thick black goes to earth.

i have 3 cables coming from the ds2-1, red (2 joined cables), one white and one black. 

I assume red goes to red, white goes to green and black goes to black (1-4 and 2-3 cold).

Do I still need to get a switched 12 v spliced? I guess so.

 

I just checked. There will be no need to splice, as the coils still have 12 volts with the igniter connector disconnected.

its just a question of wiring directly red to red, black and green to black and white.

i guess thick black goes to earth

Done. Easy. I managed to find a connector identical to the one going to the coils, so it doesn’t look too butchered.

Works well. Bike started right away. Will give it a go around d sometime soon to see what happens when it warms up… for for the moment, it’s looking good! 

cheers

cartal wrote:

Done. Easy. I managed to find a connector identical to the one going to the coils, so it doesn’t look too butchered.

Works well. Bike started right away. Will give it a go around d sometime soon to see what happens when it warms up… for for the moment, it’s looking good! 

cheers


 

Apologies for the slow response (been away for the weekend) glad you got sorted. You where right that you only need to use three wires from the igniter loom (Red, Green and Black) none of the rest are required

If you listen to yesterday’s video carefully there is a slight knock coming from the alternator area, so I took the cover off. My findings:

1.- The big gear turns quite freely. If I don’t remember wrong, it should offer a slight resistance (of course only one way)

2.- there is quite a bit of play.
please watch this video I just took

i would like to read your opinions and experience
on What play this should have

thank you!


 

 Here…